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Nosh Nutrition x Advice

Are Mushrooms Healthy? The Definitive Answer

Mushrooms: love ’em or hate ’em, you can’t argue with the facts. There are lots of edible varieties, and they’re found in all types of cuisine, from Mexican food to Italian food and beyond. But are mushrooms healthy?
We looked to the experts to find out the details of this fungi favorite (or not-so-favorite). According to research conducted by Paul Stamets, mycologist (a biologist who studies fungi), in general, mushrooms are great sources of B vitamins and vitamin D. They’re also high in minerals like potassium, copper, and selenium, which Stamets writes are important for maintaining a healthy immune system. In his research, Stamets points out that mushrooms are chock full of medicinal compounds like triterpenoids and glycoproteins as well.

But what is a mushroom, exactly?

A mushroom is neither a fruit or a vegetable,” says registered dietitian Vanessa Rissetto. “Technically mushrooms aren’t even plants. They are a special type of fungus.” Registered dietitian Lisa Hayim explains that plants produce their own energy, while fungi have to absorb nutrients from the environment around them in order to make energy.

What are the health benefits of mushrooms?

As Stamets found in his study, mushrooms are a great source of several vitamins and minerals, but that’s just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to all that mushrooms have to offer. As it turns out, the nutritional profile of mushrooms is pretty diverse, but here are a few of our favorite health benefits:

Anti-Cancer

You may have heard that mushrooms have anti-cancer properties, but what’s the truth of the matter? According to a study published by the Public Library of Science, mushrooms contain polysaccharides, which have tumor-inhibiting qualities. The researchers concluded that a greater intake of edible mushrooms could decrease the risk of breast cancer.
A study published in Current Pharmaceutical Biotechnology explains that triterpenoids—another compound found in some edible mushrooms—could have anti-cancer benefits too, because they are anti-inflammatory and inhibit the growth of cancer cells.
[pullquote align=”center”]“Shiitake mushrooms contain lentinan that protects cells from DNA damage, thus reducing cancer or disease formation.”
—Arti Lakhani, MD[/pullquote]
“Mushrooms are high in antioxidants, which is great with those diagnosed with any malignancy, as antioxidants reduce free radical damage and reduce DNA damage,” says Arti Lakhani, MD, oncologist, hematologist, and director of the integrative oncology program at AMITA Health Cancer Institute in Illinois. Reishi mushrooms, a type of medicinal mushroom, are one of Lakhani’s favorites, as they’re known to have anti-cancer and anti-inflammatory properties.
“Shiitake mushrooms contain lentinan that protects cells from DNA damage, thus reducing cancer or disease formation,” adds Lakhani.

Immune-Boosting

A study published in Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine states that mushrooms may have immune-boosting benefits because they’re anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial. “Beta glucans are found in mushrooms and help cell walls stimulate an immune response,” says Hayim.

Weight Management and Blood Sugar Control

If you’re trying to lose weight, you know just how difficult that process can be. Mushrooms might help. A study published in the journal Appetite reports that eating mushrooms instead of meat at breakfast could leave you feeling fuller for longer, which could help you eat less during the day.
“Because they’re high fiber, that means mushrooms are digested slowly and thus can decrease blood sugar spikes and keep you fuller longer,” says Lakhani, who adds that this is useful if you have diabetes or are trying to control your weight. As an added bonus: Fiber can lower cholesterol, says Lakhani.

Mood-Boosting

Reishi mushrooms are an adaptogen, which means they help the body in times of physical and mental stress, says Lakhani. “They improve mood and energy and normalize any hormonal imbalance,” she says. According to research published in Phytomedicine, adaptogens change the way your body responds to stress (possibly by stimulating the production of proteins that curb stress).

So, are mushrooms healthy? Experts weigh in.

As you can see, mushrooms can have some impressive health benefits, which is why experts agree that they are healthy. “Mushrooms are low in calories, low in sugar, have no fat, and no sodium,” says Lakhani. They’re also high in antioxidants and fiber, says Lakhani.
Rissetto says three and a half ounces of crimini mushrooms contain 44 percent of the recommended daily amount of vitamin B2 (riboflavin) and 30 percent of the recommended daily amount of vitamin B3 (niacin); white button mushrooms have 36 and 30 percent of the recommended daily amount of vitamins B2 and B3, respectively; and oyster mushrooms have 32 and 39 percent of the recommended daily amount of vitamins B2 and B3, respectively.
These B vitamins are believed to help boost metabolism,” Rissetto explains. Plus, certain types of mushrooms, like reishi, chaga, and cordyceps, have adaptogenic properties that support health, Hayim says.

Best Ways to Incorporate Mushrooms Into Your Diet

If you want to eat more mushrooms but aren’t quite sure where to start, you have plenty of options. Rissetto says white button, portobello, and crimini are some of the most popular varieties. “I love cooking with portobello because they are super hearty,” she says. “I often make a pizza with it that is super low-carb and easy to make.”
Bonus pro-tip: Mushrooms have a lot of water in them, so Rissetto recommends scooping out the gills to make them less wet.
Hayim adds that mushrooms are a great side dish when simply sautéed or roasted. They can also be thrown into any dish from stir-fries to soups, and portobello mushrooms can even be used as a meat substitute, says Hayim.
In his research, Stamets points out that heating mushrooms at very high temperatures can degrade the B vitamins in them, but eating mushrooms raw offers little nutritional value and can cause tummy troubles.
According to a study in the International Journal of Food Sciences and Nutrition, grilling is one of the best ways to cook mushrooms without sacrificing their nutritional value. (And all you busy bees out there can rest easy knowing that microwaving is also a recommended cooking method for maintaining the nutritional profile of mushrooms.)
As far as medicinal mushrooms like reishi are concerned, Hayim recommends using powders that you can add to coffee or drink as an elixir. Alison Wu, who is a food stylist, recipe developer, and wellness writer, is a big fan of reishi and cordyceps, which she adds to her morning matcha.
She advises keeping your portion size small. “As a general rule of thumb, I don’t usually put more than three to four adaptogens in each potion,” she says. “You only really need a half teaspoon of each adaptogen,” she says.

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Potential Dangers of Mushrooms

“There are no real risks to the most common types of mushrooms, so they’re safe to enjoy without issue,” says Rissetto. You just want to make sure you’re getting your mushrooms from the right source, like a grocery store. Research published in the Canadian Medical Association Journal highlighted the case of a woman who ate wild mushrooms then went to the emergency room with stomach pain, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. She left with a new liver. No thanks!
So as long as your mushrooms come from a grocery store or farmers market (and you haven’t harvested them from the wilderness), you’re safe to reap the nutritional—and delicious!—benefits of this fascinating fungus. Eat up!

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

What's My Skin Type? Here's How To Find Out

In theory, going into Sephora to shop for skincare products should be a whole lot of fun: The masks! The moisturizers! The facial mists! But when you actually step foot inside, seeing all those products can be seriously overwhelming. Where the heck are you supposed to begin?
Knowing your skin type is a crucial first step. Why? “It’s important to know your skin type in order to choose the most effective skincare products and in-office treatments to promote skin wellness and slow aging,” says licensed esthetician Kimberly Bates.
Keep reading to learn exactly how to figure out your skin type and put together a regimen targeted to your specific skin type and concerns.

How to Determine Your Skin Type

Not totally sure what skin type you have? The next time you cleanse your face, don’t apply any further products (even moisturizer!). Check out how your skin looks and feels about an hour later, then compare your skin’s feel and appearance to these common signs that can help you figure out whether you have oily, dry, combination, or “normal” skin.

Oily Skin

One of the biggest signifiers of oily skin is large pore size as well as an especially shiny T-zone (the part of your face that includes your forehead, nose, and chin), says Bates.
Another giveaway [of oily skin] is grease residue that builds on [the] skin’s surface during the day and easily transfers to anything pressed against the face, whether it’s a blotting tissue or your smartphone,” says Sonya Dakar, celebrity esthetician.

Dry Skin

The telltale signs of dry skin are tightness or itchiness. “You may also notice rough patches, flaking, or even cracking and bleeding,” says Dakar. Those with dry skin often experience peeling around their noses, says Jennifer Holman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist.
If your skin feels tight and uncomfortable after cleansing, then you probably have dry skin, says Bates.

Combination Skin

Are you a little oily here and a little dry there? Then you might have combination skin. “Typical signs of combination skin would be an oily T-zone with possibly dry skin elsewhere,” says Bates. “However, the oily regions can be around the hairline on the forehead only.”

Normal Skin

The word “normal” is kind of a misnomer because having oily or dry skin doesn’t mean you’re not normal! In the parlance of skincare, “normal” skin just means you don’t have any recurring, stand-out issues. “Your skin can be classified as normal if it isn’t particularly oily or dry and if anti-aging, acne, and sensitivity aren’t concerns on your radar—in other words, the skin type all of us wish we had,” says Dakar.

What determines your skin type?

Your skin type is determined by your genetics to some degree. For instance, if your dad had acne, then you might have him to thank for your own breakout woes, says Dakar. If your mom’s always complaining about having a flaky nose, she might be to blame for your dry skin!
Hormones affect your skin type, too. “When you are on your period, your skin may experience breakouts, causing you to think your skin is oily,” says Dakar. “But once your period is over, the breakouts [might] clear right up and your skin can become flaky.” Your skin might even change seasonally depending on how much, or little, moisture is in the air. You might notice oilier skin in the summer and drier skin in the winter, says Dakar.
Lifestyle factors like smoking, stress, and how well (or poorly) you sleep also play a role in how your skin appears, says Tori Burns, a certified physician’s assistant.
Using the wrong products can exacerbate your skin issues, says Holman. If you’re piling on retinoids for wrinkles, this can cause peeling and make dry skin worse, says Holman.
Plus, there’s nothing we can do to stop aging, and you can expect your skin to change in appearance and texture over time due to aging as well, adds Holman.

The Best Skincare Routine for Every Skin Type

Now that you know which skin type you have, it’s time to put together the best skincare routine for you.

The Best Skincare Routine for Oily Skin

Although drying out [oily] skin feels logical, it’s not,” says Dakar. “You should avoid using stripping and dehydrating products with sulfates—particularly sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium laureth sulfate—foaming agents that leave skin feeling refreshingly clean after immediate use but that stimulate oil glands to produce more oil in the long run to overcompensate for the sudden shock of dryness.”
Dakar likes treating oily skin with oil to balance it. “It may sound crazy, but feeding [oily] skin a healthy oil like omega-rich flaxseed oil sends your skin a message that it does not need to produce any extra oil on its own,” she says.
Bates recommends looking for oil-free moisturizers and sunscreens to avoid excess greasiness. Retinol is a great ingredient to use when you have oily skin, says Burns. It increases cell turnover, getting rid of dead skin cell buildup in your pores, which can lead to acne.

The Best Skincare Routine for Dry Skin

Steer clear of foaming cleansers, which will be too stripping for your dry skin, and stick to oil cleansers instead, says Bates. Dakar is a fan of cleansing oils for dry skin, too. “Cleansing oils will melt away makeup and dirt while leaving skin very soft and hydrated,” she says, adding that you should wash your face with lukewarm water because hot water is dehydrating.
Moisturizer is key to maintaining a healthy skin barrier, says Bates. (Your skin barrier keeps moisture in and irritants out.) Dakar suggests looking for ingredients like resveratrol, grapeseed oil, and antioxidants. “Caring for dry skin may be as simple as eliminating harsh environmental factors or kicking an old habit to the curb,” says Dakar. “Being exposed to dry air regularly and spending time in the sun without protection can cause skin to dry out. Bad habits including smoking or poor hydration are surefire contributors to dry or itchy skin.”

The Best Skincare Routine for Combination Skin

Use a gentle cleanser (so as not to over-strip your dry areas), says Bates. You may want to use two separate moisturizers: a more emollient one for your dry areas and an oil-free one for your oily regions, says Bates. Burns points out that applying two moisturizers isn’t always the most feasible option, so if you don’t think you’ll have time to commit to that, know that it may take some trial and error to find the one moisturizer that works for your entire face.
Use an oil-free sunscreen and exfoliate your oily areas once or twice a week with a salicylic acid scrub, says Bates. Studies have shown that salicylic acid is effective at minimizing acne, a common skin concern for those with combination skin.

The Best Skincare Routine for Normal Skin

When you’re not too oily and not too dry, focus on cleansing and moisturizing well. You can pick whatever cleanser you like (lucky!). As far as moisturizer goes, Bates likes hyaluronic acid. “It’s the molecule responsible for skin hydration,” she says. “At age 20, we start to lose our ability to synthesize our own hyaluronic acid. By age 50, we have lost 50 percent of the capability to produce this molecule.”
Because you’re not dealing with any major issues, make protecting your skin from sun damage and environmental stressors a priority. Bates recommends wearing broad-spectrum sunscreen and an antioxidant serum daily. She also suggests using an eye cream for hydration and a retinol product at night to promote cell turnover and improve wrinkles.

Common Skin Concerns and How to Deal

Beyond your skin type, there are concerns that lots of us deal with on the regular. No matter what your skin type is, you can experience all of these skin concerns, meaning having dry, acne-prone skin or dehydrated, oily skin is completely possible.

Sensitive Skin

Sensitive skin refers to a range of conditions, from genetic ailments, such as rosacea and eczema, to reactive skin and skin that’s been sensitized due to medication or harsh products and treatments,” says Dakar. If you have a reaction and notice itchiness or a rash, this could be sensitivity to an ingredient, like retinol, or a treatment, like a chemical peel.
If you’re not sure what’s causing your sensitivity, you may need to take an elimination approach, says Burns. Try one product at a time until you figure out what’s bothering your skin, she suggests.

The Best Skincare Products for Sensitive Skin

A good regimen [for sensitive skin] includes a gentle detergent-free cleaner,” says Dakar. Strengthen your skin by using a skin barrier–repairing moisturizer, says Bates. Stay away from products with fragrance, says Bates, since this can be irritating, and don’t forget to wear sunscreen daily.

Dehydrated Skin

Dehydrated skin is not the same as dry skin! Your skin will get dehydrated when there’s a lack of water in the top layer of your skin, says Bates. This is a problem because, as she explains, “When skin is dehydrated, often times it will produce more oil to make up for the missing water, which can cause breakouts and irritation.”.
You can also have skin dehydration and oily skin, says Holman. This can occur when you’re using too many products that strip your skin of oil, which then causes your body to pump out more oil.

The Best Skincare Products for Dehydrated Skin

Dakar suggests feeding your face with a good facial oil and a particle-free gel exfoliator to dissolve the top layer of dead skin without over-stripping your complexion. Bates says a hyaluronic acid serum is another good product pick. “Hyaluronic acid is often referred to as a drink of water for the skin,” she says.

Acne-Prone Skin

Acne doesn’t discriminate. While it’s often associated with oily skin (too much oil is a cause of acne), any skin type—even dry skin—can be prone to acne. “Acne is caused when the follicles in your skin get clogged, so an overproduction of oil is not the only culprit,” says Burns. “Dirt, dead skin cells, and makeup can also clog pores.”
Plus, your skin gets drier as you age, but hormonal changes, like menstruation and menopause, could still be causing you to experience acne, says Dakar.

The Best Skincare Products for Acne-Prone Skin

If you have oily skin, you likely experience acne, so continue with your regular skincare regimen. If you have dry skin and acne, use a gentle exfoliator to cleanse your pores. Dakar likes lactic acid because it’s gentle yet clarifying. Bates suggests using a soothing cleanser and Dakar recommends spot treating acne-prone areas so that you don’t dry out your entire face.

Aging Skin

We all get older–no shame in the game! But as you age, you might notice new skin concerns popping up. Collagen and elastin (two building blocks of skin) are produced less and less as you get older, says Bates. “When we’re young, fat in the face is evenly distributed, with some pockets here and there that plump up the forehead, temples, cheeks, and areas around the eyes and mouth,” says Dakar. “With age, that fat loses volume, clumps up, and shifts downward, so features that were formerly round may sink, and skin that was smooth and tight gets loose and sags.”
While we’re all for embracing wrinkles with grace—they’re a sign of a well-lived life, after all—if you want to address some of these changes, there’s nothing wrong with that either.

The Best Skincare Products for Aging Skin

If you only have time to use two skincare products to address signs of aging, let them be sunscreen and a retinol, says Burns. The sun is the number one cause of premature aging, says Holman, which is why SPF is crucial. And according to a study published in JAMA Dermatology, retinol significantly improves the look of wrinkles.
Time for one or two more products? Burns says an antioxidant serum will help protect you against environmental aggressors that cause aging. Vitamin C is a popular antioxidant that is readily available in skincare products. Studies have shown that vitamin C protects against photoaging and even boosts collagen production. Meanwhile, Dakar likes eye cream. “Our first signs of aging happen around our eye area where we have no oil glands, so eye cream is your best friend.”

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

Is Microblading For You? Here's What You Need To Know

If there was one step in your morning beauty routine you would never, ever skip, we have a feeling you’d say it’d be your brows. There’s a reason why the phrase “brows on fleek” caught on like it did. Your arches frame your face, and they have the ability to totally transform the way your face looks.
These days, people are taking their brows to new extremes to garner major attention. Scroll through Instagram, and you’re bound to spot rainbow arches, wavy eyebrows, and more. Prefer a more natural brow look? No tweezing necessary today: Super-thin arches are out, and thick, full brows are very, very in.
Luckily, there are tons of products out there you can use to fill in your brows, from pencils to mascaras to pomades to gels (oh hey, Glossier Boy Brow). But let’s be real: Filling in your brows on the daily is time-consuming as hell, and sometimes the results don’t look quite as natural as you’d hope.
Sound familiar? Microblading might just be the solution to your biggest brow woes.

What is microblading?

“Microblading is a cosmetic tattoo procedure that involves creating small intricate strokes using a manual tool and applying pigment,” explains Jen Santoro, cosmetic tattoo artist and owner of Altered Aesthetics, a cosmetic tattoo shop that specializes in getting clients’ brows on point.  


Bianca Davis, licensed esthetician, tattoo artist, and owner of J’Adore Brows, says the whole goal of microblading is to create natural-looking brows. And, spoiler alert: It actually works.

Microblading might be for you if…

If your brows are sparse, you hate spending your precious time filling in your brows in the morning, or you’re simply interested in achieving a natural brow look, microblading might be a good option for you.
Santoro says most of her clients have either plucked for so long that their brows no longer grow, or they have inconsistent hair growth; Davis has clients of all ages and all different kinds of brow situations. “I see everyone from young to old women to women who love makeup to women who don’t love makeup,” she says. “Even women who don’t love makeup still like to have a finished look without looking overdone.”

What to Expect From Microblading

Curious about microblading? Here’s everything you need to know about the procedure if you’re considering it.

Microblading Prep

Forty-eight hours before your microblading appointment, you should stop taking any blood-thinning medications or supplements (such as ibuprofen or fish oil), says Santoro. She explains that during microblading, you might bleed a little bit, but if you’re on a blood thinner, you’ll bleed a lot more, and this will dilute the pigment, preventing your skin from retaining it well. Davis recommends limiting alcohol and caffeine intake in the days leading up to your appointment because they also thin the blood.
Additionally, stop using prescription retinoids a week before (they thin the skin), don’t get any chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or Botox, and don’t pluck or wax because you don’t want any irritation around your brow area, says Santoro.

Microblading Procedure

Expect your microblading session to take two hours or more.
Before your esthetician gets to work on microblading, they’ll map your eyebrows to ensure you’re happy with the shape and fullness. This can take anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour, says Santoro. During this process, your esthetician will determine where your brow should naturally start, arch, and end (with input from you). “If the client has a little bit of brow hair or a decent amount, I like to follow the natural pattern of the brow,” says Santoro.
[pullquote align=”left”]“I find brow mapping to be the most crucial part of the process. You can lay down the perfect stroke and color, but if you don’t map, you won’t have good results.”
—Jen Santoro, cosmetic tattoo artist[/pullquote]
Santoro gives clients the opportunity to look at the brow shape from all different angles (lying down, sitting up, in a front-facing mirror, etc.). Once both brow shapes are complete, Santoro uses a caliper measuring tool and string to measure the brows to make sure they’re symmetrical, the arches are the same height, and that both brows are the same size. “I find brow mapping to be the most crucial part of the process,” says Santoro. “You can lay down the perfect stroke and color, but if you don’t map, you won’t have good results.”
Next comes the numbing. Santoro uses a topical lidocaine cream to numb the brow area and leaves it on for about 20 minutes. During that time, she works with the client to figure out what color they want their brows to be. “The goal should be to create color that, in its healed state, is as close as possible to what your current brow color is,” says Davis. “That’s what will give the most realistic look if you’re not using any makeup.” Santoro typically goes for a slightly darker color to account for the fact that pigment fades 20 to 30 percent once healed.
When the area is numbed, your esthetician will remove the cream and get to work microblading. They’ll use a hand tool to deposit ink, and this usually takes about 30 minutes to complete, says Davis. “We use the smallest strokes to build the eyebrow with a specific pattern to replicate the most realistic look of an eyebrow,” she says.
Santoro says she’ll do one pass to create enough strokes to outline your brow, then she’ll do a second pass to fill in the rest of the brow. After looking at the brow from all different angles, she may do a third pass to fill in areas that she missed.

After Microblading

Once done, Santoro will clean the brows and give clients an aftercare kit. She’ll have you blot your brows with cotton rounds every 10 to 15 minutes for the first two to three hours post-procedure to remove lymph fluid that might be seeping out. “You want the brows to heal softly and flake off, and reducing fluid helps,” says Santoro.
You’ll want to clean your brows with a little bit of warm water and a fragrance-free antibacterial soap morning and night, says Santoro, since you do technically have an open wound. Santoro gives clients an ointment specifically made for microblading that you can apply two to four times a day for the first week.
“For the first two to three days, your brows will appear darker because the pigment is sitting on top,” says Santoro. Then, between days four and six, your brows will start to flake off. “You go through the same process when you get a traditional tattoo,” says Santoro. You should stop flaking by day six or seven, and then by day 14, the color should have stabilized.
“Microblading is a two-step process with sessions four to six weeks apart,” says Davis, meaning you’ll have to come in for a touch-up after your initial session.
Davis calls the touch-up the perfection session: “We take time to adjust the color, shape, and anything else we want to tweak,” she says. The perfection session is a lot quicker than the initial microblading session. From there, touch-ups are recommended once a year.


“The ideal candidate for microblading is someone with a skin type that has minimal oil,” says Davis. “The less oil there is, the better the results will be because the color retention will be more vibrant over time.” If you have moderately oily skin, Davis says you can expect to need a touch up between eight and 10 months, whereas if you have normal to dry skin, you can go up to a year before needing a touchup. If you never go for any touch ups, your results may last pretty well for one to three years, says Santoro.
To maintain microblading results for as long as possible, always wear sunscreen when you’re outside (sun exposure fades tattoos) and avoid exfoliating around your brow area, since that can accelerate pigment fade, says Santoro.

How to Find a Microblading Expert

It’s important to go to someone who’s properly trained in microblading, as you don’t want to take any chances with someone working on your face. Your expert’s licenses should be on display in their studio, says Davis, and they should have completed microblading training. Santoro says you want to go to someone who’s at least taken a four-day course, if not more.
Davis also recommends requesting to see photos of healed work, not just advertised pictures. “The healed work is what you will end up with a week and a half after your initial appointment,” says Davis.
Going in for a consultation (which is typically free) is a good way to see if that pro is the right one for you.

How much does microblading cost?

Microblading doesn’t come cheap. Santoro says it can run anywhere from $400 to $600 (or more!) depending on where you live. This price usually includes the initial touch-up, says Santoro, and it may also include any aftercare products you’re supposed to use.
Yearly touch-ups won’t be as expensive as the initial cost (they may be about half).

Microblading Risks: What to Keep in Mind

The good news is that microblading is relatively safe, says Anna Guanche, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Bella Skin Institute; however, there are always risks with any procedure.
“Anytime there is a puncture of the skin, there is a risk of infection,” says Guanche. “The area should be properly prepped to avoid this.”
Guanche adds that you could experience an allergic reaction if you’re sensitive to the pigment or numbing cream. Doing a spot test could be a good way to avoid this, she says.

Popular Microblading Alternatives

Microblading isn’t your only semi-permanent brow option.

Microfeathering

Kristie Streicher, celebrity eyebrow artist, created the technique known as microfeathering. Streicher uses a super-fine, precise blade to deposit pigment onto brows. Microfeathering isn’t a way to create a totally new eyebrow (so it’s not for those with zero brow hairs), but it can refine what you already have.

Microshading

This treatment is popular, too. “The idea with microshading is to produce the look of a filled-in brow that looks more like you’ve filled it in with powder or makeup,” says Davis. “Sometimes artists will combine this with microblading.” Microshading can be done with a hand tool or a machine, says Davis.

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

The Deets On Dermaplaning: Shaving Your Face To Get A Glow

You’ve probably noticed that your skin doesn’t shine quite as brightly as it did in your younger days. Yes, it’s totally unfair, but it’s a fact of life that skin gets duller as you get older. So celebs and beauty pros have been turning to a treatment that has the ability to pump up the radiance on lackluster skin—and it doesn’t even require fancy machinery or cost boatloads of money. We’re talking about dermaplaning.
This popular mechanical exfoliation method is super gentle and has been gathering legions of fans in recent years. “Dermaplaning has been around for well over five years, but it’s become very popular in the last couple of years,” says Lauren Fine, MD, board-certified dermatologist in Chicago. Why so popular? “I think because it’s so simple, there’s no downtime, and it has multiple benefits,” Fine says.
Dermaplaning utilizes a super fine surgical blade to remove the hair from your face—yep, you’re shaving to get a glow. And almost anyone can benefit from dermaplaning, peach fuzz or not. But if you’re easily irritated by traditional face scrubs, want to boost your complexion’s brightness, or have oily skin and regularly experience clogged pores, dermaplaning could be particularly useful for you, says licensed esthetician Michelle D’Allaird Brenner.

How Dermaplaning Works

Dermaplaning involves an expert gently gliding a surgical scalpel across your face to remove dead skin cells and vellus hair (better known as peach fuzz) from the outermost layer of your skin, says Kelly DeWolfe, a nurse practitioner in Chicago.
First, your expert will cleanse your skin, then they’ll degrease your face with either alcohol or acetone, says D’Allaird Brenner. “You want to dry out that upper layer of skin as much as you can so that it sloughs right off,” she says. “If it’s well hydrated, you’re not going to get anywhere.”
Next comes the actual dermaplaning. “We’ll start in one area, then move around the face,” says Tahl Humes, DO, founder and director of Vitahl Medical Aesthetics in Denver. “We customize it to you. We might not treat the entire face, but there might be some areas that need more treatment over others.”
After that’s done, D’Allaird Brenner says she’ll apply a serum to deliver anti-aging, brightening, or hydrating benefits deep into your skin. Finally, your session will end with moisturizer or sunscreen with SPF if you had dermaplaning done during the day, since your skin is in a slightly heightened state of sensitivity after exfoliation, she adds.

Dermaplaning Pros and Cons

One of the biggest pros of dermaplaning is that it’s something that just about any skin type can benefit from, says Humes. And experts love it because it’s much easier on the skin than scrubbing. That means you won’t risk irritating sensitive skin. “It’s probably the most gentle form of mechanical exfoliation there is,” says Fine.
Another dermaplaning pro is that there are immediate benefits, namely brighter and softer skin. Because those dead skin cells and peach fuzz are gone, your skin will look radiant and feel ridiculously smooth right away. “It offers instant gratification,” says DeWolfe.
Additionally, pairing dermaplaning with another procedure, such as microdermabrasion, a chemical peel, or laser treatments, can leave you with even better results, says Humes. When you exfoliate dead skin cell buildup, this allows your skincare products or other treatments to penetrate deeper and work more effectively, says Fine.
Dermaplaning is also a good option for those who can’t use other exfoliation or hair-removal methods. DeWolfe points out that while pregnant women have to steer clear of chemical exfoliators (ingredients like retinoids that work to increase cell turnover are usually a no-no when you’re expecting), they can dermaplane.
In other cases, getting your facial hair waxed if you’re also using over-the-counter retinol products or a prescription retinoid can cause your skin to lift and may even leave you with open sores, says Fine. Because dermaplaning is so gentle, you don’t have to worry about that happening. “It’s a nice option when waxing is difficult,” says Fine.
One of the biggest cons of dermaplaning is that you can’t get the same results at home. In fact, your skin could end up in worse condition if you take a DIY approach. “We’re talking about blades on your face, so I’d be worried about any sort of complication,” says Fine. Another con is that dermaplaning is not a suitable option if you have skin conditions like cystic acne, psoriasis, or eczema on your face, says D’Allaird Brenner.

Dermaplaning for Hair Removal

As previously mentioned, in addition to exfoliating away dead skin cells, dermaplaning also removes peach fuzz, which is another reason that this treatment is so popular. Whether that’s something that’s important or not is entirely up to you, but there’s no denying it’s a big point of attraction for many people interested in dermaplaning.
The pressure to remove hair, whether on the face or body, is real, and it’s something that women have dealt with since forever, shaving, waxing, and lasering their way to being fuzz free. In her book Plucked: a History of Hair Removal, author Rebecca M. Herzig writes that women who don’t shave their legs are often seen as gross and less sexually attractive than [linkbuilder id=”6509″ text=”hairless women”]. She also writes that hair removal is linked to sexualization.
A study published in the Journal of Psychosomatic Research asked 88 women about their facial hair-removal practices and found that on average, the women spent 104 minutes a week on managing facial hair. Forty percent of participants even said they felt uncomfortable in social situations due to their facial hair.
Meanwhile, according to a survey done by the American Laser Center, the average woman will spend more than 58 days of her life removing hair from her body and spend $15.87 a month on shaving (which adds up to more than $10,000 over the course of a lifetime!). While we’re all for doing what you want with your beauty routines, the societal pressure to be hair free is certainly something to keep in mind.

What to Know Before Dermaplaning

So now you’re sold and you want to see what all the fuss is about when it comes to dermaplaning. Here’s what to expect.

How long does dermaplaning take?

Humes says a stand-alone dermaplaning session lasts 20 to 30 minutes, although your appointment may take longer if you have any Qs for your derm.

Is dermaplaning painful?

Not really. “If you took a business card and rubbed it back and forth against your cheek, that’s what it feels like,” says D’Allaird Brenner.

Can dermaplaning cause breakouts?

You could break out after dermaplaning, but the dermaplaning itself isn’t to blame. Here’s the deal: You have to make sure whoever’s doing the dermaplaning is using a single-use surgical-grade blade, says D’Allaird Brenner. Otherwise gunk from an old blade could be transferred onto your skin.
Another reason you might break out after dermaplaning: “When you mildly exfoliate, you bring new skin to the surface, but you’re also bringing whatever garbage is on the way out,” says D’Allaird Brenner. So if a breakout was on its way, it might hit the surface of your skin sooner than it would’ve if you hadn’t dermaplaned.
Finally, when people get dermaplaning done, they often put their hands all over their faces to feel the softness (not that we blame them…), and in doing this they risk transferring pore-clogging germs from their hands to their faces.

Can you put on makeup after dermaplaning?

You can, but D’Allaird Brenner doesn’t recommend it. “From an aesthetic standpoint, let your skin breathe and adapt to the environment,” she says. That being said, your makeup will go on a whole lot more smoothly post-dermaplaning sesh, says D’Allaird Brenner. Just wait until the next day!

How long does it take to recover from dermaplaning?

Fine says there’s no downtime. You can go about your regularly scheduled business immediately. No red faces here.

What kind of maintenance am I looking at with dermaplaning?

Humes says you can go as often as once a month, and you may even be able to extend that to two months between sessions, says Fine.

Can an esthetician do dermaplaning?

Yes! D’Allaird Brenner says it’s a good idea to check an esthetician’s credentials first to see where their license is from. For instance, D’Allaird Brenner is licensed by CIDESCO, a major international beauty therapy association. It’s also a good idea to read reviews before seeing an esthetician for dermaplaning, she says.

How much does dermaplaning cost?

Unlike a sugar scrub you could pick up at your local drugstore or even DIY, dermaplaning isn’t exactly cheap. Prices generally range anywhere from $50 to $150 per session depending on where you live, says D’Allaird Brenner. Fine says that if you combine dermaplaning with another treatment, like microdermabrasion, then you might be given a discount on the dermaplaning.

Dermaplaning Myths: Busted!

What’s true and what’s not when it comes to dermaplaning? We break it down.

It’s safe for all skin types.

True. Fine says that even the most sensitive skin can handle dermaplaning. Unlike scrubs, which are often formulated with harsh particles that can irritate skin, dermaplaning is incredibly gentle.

It’ll make your hair grow back thicker and darker.

False. “That couldn’t be further from the truth,” says D’Allaird Brenner. “Your hair growth cycle is completely linked to hormones. It has nothing to do with shaving.”

Your skin is too dark for dermaplaning.

False. Some skin treatments (like certain lasers) are typically off-limits for people with darker skin tones because they can cause hyperpigmentation and discoloration. But people of all skin tones can try dermaplaning, says Humes. Dermaplaning is also safe to do on tan skin in the summer, says Fine.

You can use your regular razor to dermaplane.

False. Sure, you could shave your face with a drugstore razor, but you won’t see the same results. Consumers don’t have access to the same quality of blades that professionals do, says DeWolfe.

You have to really commit to dermaplaning to see results.

False. Remember: There are immediate results. DeWolfe says dermaplaning (especially when it’s included in a facial) is a great way to get glowing skin before a special occasion.

DIY Dermaplaning: Can you do dermaplaning at home?

If you want to try dermaplaning at home, tools like Dermaflash 2.0 Luxe Facial Exfoliation & Peach Fuzz Removal do exist. This tool has two speed settings (one for gentle exfoliation for beginners and one for a deeper experience). The brand recommends holding your skin taut, placing the tool at an angle so that it sits right above the surface of your skin, and using short feathery strokes to exfoliate.
That being said, experts caution against DIY dermaplaning for the most part. For starters, you’re not going to be able to buy the same quality blade that a professional has access to, says DeWolfe, meaning you won’t get close to the same results.
It’s also a matter of safety: It’s much harder to work on yourself. “You could slice your skin,” says D’Allaird Brenner. “If you draw your blade the wrong direction, you will cut your skin. And if you scrape too aggressively in one area, you’re going to scrape down to the lower layers of skin. By doing that, you might end up with hyperpigmentation and increased sensitivity.”
 

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

How To Determine Your Hair Type And Put Together A Routine That Works

You likely have your go-to shampoos, conditioners, and styling products, but are they really the right ones for your hair type? Understanding what type of hair you have will help you put together a routine that can effectively tame frizz and enhance your hair’s natural texture in a really beautiful way, says Danna Rhodes Douglas, owner of The Curly Hair Salon in Florida.
The thing is, the products and styling techniques that work on straight hair may not necessarily be ideal for extremely curly hair. The same goes for haircuts: What looks amazing on your wavy-haired pal may not exactly have the same effect on straight hair or kinky hair. That’s why we chatted with top hairstylists to outline what’s known as the hair typing system.
Hairstylist Andre Walker is responsible for the hair typing system, ranging from type 1 through type 4, which he came up with in the ’90s. Over the years, curly hair communities have made modifications to add in more hair types. In those communities, calling yourself a 2C or 4B can instantly tell other curly girls a lot about you (and your routine).
Wondering how to find out your hair type? The best way to determine your hair type is to wash and condition in the shower, blot your hair with an old t-shirt (this won’t promote frizz the way a towel does), and let your hair air dry so you can see its natural shape, says Fred Connors, owner of FRED.nyc salon.

Type 1 Hair Type

Straight hair, do care. If you have type 1 hair, that means you’ve got that smooth, sleek, straight hair that so many women need a flat iron to achieve.
1A: “This is the straightest of straight hair types,” says Connors. “This hair type is quite uncommon. It’s pin-straight with no bends or waves. It has a great amount of difficulty holding curl.”
1B/1C: “These are more common for straight hair types,” says Connors. “Types 1B and 1C hair tend to curl under toward the base and hold curl.” Type 1C has slightly more curl than type 1B.
Type 1 Celeb Inspiration: Lucy Liu and Gwyneth Paltrow
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Type 2 Hair Type

Beachy waves FTW. That’s exactly what you have if your hair falls within the type 2 umbrella, no dip in the ocean required.
2A: “Type 2A is wavier than straight hair but not curly,” says Connors. “It’s a very loosely defined wave. There’s no strong S shape.”
2B: Your hair has more defined waves than type 2A, with the distance between waves being shorter than it is for type 2A hair, says Connors.
2C: “Your hair looks curlier than types 2A and 2B, but it’s still a wave,” says Connors. You’ll notice an even shorter distance between waves than types 2A and 2B hair, as well as a more defined S shape.
Type 2 Celeb Inspiration: Jessica Alba and Drew Barrymore

Type 3 Hair Type

Hey there, curly hair! From light curls to tight curls, here’s what you need to know about curl patterns 3A–3C.
3A: Whereas wavy hair produces an S shape, curly hair produces a circle, says Connor. Type 3A hair is the loosest of the type 3 curl types and has the circumference of a piece of sidewalk chalk, says Connors.
3B: Your curls are tighter than type 3A, with about the circumference of a marker, says Connors.
3C: Your tightly-packed curls have the circumference of a pencil, says Connors. Think corkscrew curls!
Type 3 Celeb Inspiration: Julianna Margulies and Alicia Keys

Type 4 Hair Type

Nice to see you, kinky hair. Type 4 hair is usually thin, coarse, and packed with tight kinks. Here’s how to tell which type of kinky hair you have.
4A: “Your kink is really, really tight and in an S pattern,” says Connors.
4B: “Your kink is at a sharper angle than type 4A hair and in a Z pattern,” says Connors.
4C: “Your hair pattern is very irregular,” says Connors. “It’s not crimped or curved.” It’s similar to type 4B, just less defined.
Type 4 Celeb Inspiration: Viola Davis and Janelle Monae

What else affects hair type?

While figuring out where you fall on the 1A–4C spectrum will go a long way toward allowing you to put together the right haircare and styling routine, there are four other factors to consider as well.

Porosity

Do you apply and apply and apply product only for it to seem like it’s just sitting on the surface of your hair? This might have to do with your hair’s porosity. “This is how absorbent your hair is,” says Rhodes Douglas. More specifically, porosity refers to how well your hair holds in moisture, water, and product.
To figure out whether your hair has low or high porosity, take a small section of hair and stretch it out. Slide a finger up and down your hair shaft. If your hair feels rough, that means you have low porosity and your hair doesn’t hold in moisture very well; if your hair feels smooth, that means you have high porosity, says Rhodes Douglas.
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Elasticity

When your hair has good elasticity, that means it’s bouncy and full of life. “When you tug on a strand, you should be able to stretch it out and then it’ll go back,” says Rhodes Douglas. Chemicals, like those in hair dye, can mess with your elasticity and cause your hair to become limp, she adds.
To tell how much elasticity your hair has, try this little experiment: When your hair is wet, take a piece and stretch it out. If it returns to its original length once you release it, that means you have good elasticity.

Density

Your hair density simply means how much hair you have. You can figure out whether you have low or high density hair by measuring the circumference of your ponytail, says Rhodes Douglas. The larger your ponytail circumference, the higher hair density you have. “People think they have a ton of hair, but often they don’t,” says Rhodes Douglas. “When gathered together, do you have a copious amount of hair or is it surprisingly less than you thought?”

Curl Variance

It’s totally possible (and actually really common!) to have more than one type of curl pattern, says Rhodes Douglas. This is known as curl variance. “Often within curly hair types, you see tight curly hair and a more relaxed curl type,” says Connor. “If you have a mixture of manageable and difficult to manage hair types, I would use product for the hair type [that’s most difficult to manage].”

Your Haircare Routine by Hair Type

Once you’ve determined what your hair type is, it’s time to put together a haircare routine that works for you.

Type 1

When you have straight hair, it’s very easy for your hair’s natural oils to make their way down from your roots to your ends, says Connors. That’s a double-edged sword. While these oils give your hair shine, they can also make your hair look greasy and fall flat.
Connors suggests using a detoxifying shampoo to get rid of oils every once in a while. Volumizing products are another good bet for type 1 hair. Celebrity hairstylist Kendall Dorsey (whose clients include Cardi B and Nicki Minaj) says you can maintain your smoothness with a heat protectant and ceramic iron. Dorsey is a fan of a bob haircut on straight hair.

Type 2

“There is a tendency toward frizz with type 2 hair, especially type 2C,” says Connors. That’s why he suggests using products with humectants, which hold in moisture. You have a lot of options with your hair, though, lucky lady! You can enhance your hair with a curling iron or soften your waves with a flat iron, says Connors. (Make sure to use a heat protectant first!)
Choppy bobs at the shoulder or slightly above give type 2 hair a relaxed look, says Connors. A lob (long bob) is another low-maintenance option for type 2 hair. All you have to do is spritz some salt spray into your close-to-one-length haircut, scrunch, and let your hair air dry to define your waves.
Dorsey’s favorite way to care for type 2 hair is by co-washing with conditioner, applying a little bit of a gel serum and oil, and letting hair air dry.

Type 3

It’s official: Curls are in. More and more women are embracing their curls these days rather than straightening them into submission. But the right care and styling routine will make a world of difference.
“3A, 3B, and 3C curl patterns require moisture,” says Dorsey. The reason for that is because oil has a hard time making its way from your scalp to your ends, which can leave your curls dry. “To properly get those curls to shine and glow, I start with a steam treatment of healing natural oils (jojoba, olive, and castor oil) under a steamer for 15 minutes,” says Dorsey.
Then he adds conditioner to wet hair and twists hair to encourage the curl pattern to dry. Connors adds that cream-based products will eliminate frizz, control volume, and add shine. He suggests co-washing with conditioner and massaging the conditioner into your roots.
When you have type 3 hair, it’s best to avoid one-length cuts, Connors suggeests, since these can leave you with seriously poofy hair. “I recommend working with someone who specializes in and has an extensive history of working with curls,” says Connors.

Type 4

Kinky hair is gorgeous and voluminous, but it’s very fragile. “Type 4 hair has the tendency to break the most,” says Connors. “It needs the most moisture.” You can hydrate your hair with coconut oil, coconut butter, or anything that’s a humectant and highly moisturizing. “Type 4 hair needs to be washed the least and can definitely go the longest between shampoos,” says Connors. He adds that because type 4 hair is so fragile, it’s really hard to grow.
Dorsey likes combining a moisturizing product with a serum so that you can easily detangle your hair. “Once detangled, add gel for control and use the shingling method,” says Dorsey. This method involves using a comb to spread product from root to end, stretching and smoothing hair in a downward direction, explains Dorsey. This will allow you to achieve maximum curl definition and length.
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Categories
Health x Body Wellbeing

Best Natural Remedies for Sunburns: Soothe Sun-Damaged Skin With These 11 At-Home Options

You come home from a day at the beach after slathering on sunscreen every couple hours, only to find parts of your face and body are beet red. Ouch! We’ve all been there. No matter how well you think you’re applying (and reapplying!) sunscreen this summer, sunburns happen to the best of us. In fact, according to 2015 research from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, more than one-third of adults in the U.S. reported having a sunburn in the previous 12 months, even though 71 percent of adults said they usually or always take sun protection measures like wearing sunscreen or seeking shade.

Why’d I get sunburned? And what is a sunburn, exactly?

A sunburn is your skin’s response to prolonged, unprotected exposure to UV radiation (UVB rays in particular). “Ultraviolet rays in sunlight directly damage DNA and other molecules in the skin,” says  Anna Guanche, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Bella Skin Institute. “The broken-down and damaged skin cells signal the body, just as they would with any other type of skin burn. Then blood vessels dilate in order to bring healing factors and cells to the skin and an inflammatory response is what you see.”
A sunburn usually appears about six hours after sun exposure, says Guanche. While the redness and pain associated with a sunburn are temporary (three to five days for the typical sunburn or seven days for one that’s more severe, says Guanche), the cellular damage lasts a lifetime. According to a study published in the American Journal of Epidemiology, an overall history of severe sunburns was associated with an increased risk of melanoma, the most dangerous form of skin cancer.
Of course, being super diligent with your sun protection is key to avoiding sunburns (and potentially skin cancer down the road), but if you have a sunburn, you’re probably looking for a way to relieve the irritation, like, right this second.
While sunburn relief products are available, a study published in the Archives of Dermatology found that hydrocortisone cream—just one example of an OTC sunburn treatment—did not have much of an effect on sunburn when applied six to 23 hours after sun exposure. Natural remedies for sunburns usually involve cooling and soothing the skin, says Guanche. If you’re concerned about the ingredients, cost, or efficacy of OTC creams, you may want to consider a natural sunburn remedy instead.

The Best Natural Remedies for Sunburns

Ready for relief? Try one of these natural remedies, all of which are suitable for mild to moderate sunburns. “Consult a doctor if your sunburn is severe,” says Guanche, sharing that severe sunburn can involve any of the following:

  • Blistering
  • Sunburn that covers a large portion of the body
  • Fever
  • Headache pain
  • Chills
  • Nausea

And while these natural remedies for sunburns are generally safe for pregnant women and kids, Guanche says it’s best to consult your doctor just to be sure before trying anything if you’re pregnant or intend to use a natural remedy on a child. Once you’re good to go, apply your natural remedy of choice two to three times a day for maximum benefits.

1. Aloe

Ah, the gold standard in sunburn relief. Aloe has been used for centuries to heal skin, and for good reason. A study published in the Annals of Plastic Surgery stated that topical aloe vera improves wound healing and minimizes scarring. Julie DeMaio, an herbalist who specializes in skincare, says aloe would be her first choice for soothing a sunburn. She suggests buying a giant aloe leaf, which you can find in a grocery or health food store. Use the back of a spoon to scrape the inner gel of the plant out and apply it directly to your skin. According to DiMaio, you can use it on both your face and body. “Keep the leaf in the fridge through the lifetime of your burn,” says DeMaio.

2. Witch Hazel

“Witch hazel is a plant, but only the leaves, bark, and twigs, are used medicinally,” explains Marina Peredo, MD, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Skinfluence. “It contains chemicals called tannins which, when applied directly to the skin, can help reduce swelling, repair damaged skin, and ward off nasty bacteria.” Peredo is a fan of Dickinson’s Witch Hazel, which can be used on face and body. Apply to a cotton ball and gently rub it over your sunburned skin. A study published in the European Journal of Pediatrics found that [linkbuilder id=”6458″ text=”witch hazel”] was equally as effective as a prescription moisturizer for treating skin conditions (like diaper rash and burns) in children.

3. Apple Cider Vinegar

“Consider a diluted apple cider vinegar bath,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, dermatologic surgeon at Medical Dermatology & Cosmetic Surgery Centers. “Try adding a cupful or two to your bath to neutralize the burn. After soaking for 10 minutes, the apple cider vinegar will have helped restore your skin’s pH levels and your skin will feel cool and soothed.” Engelman says that if you’re going to apply apple cider vinegar to your face, you need to be careful to avoid your eye area because it can be irritating. “Soak a paper towel or washcloth and gently press [it on your] face instead of splashing,” she says.

4. Whole Milk

“The fat and the pH factor [of whole milk] has an anti-inflammatory effect on sunburned skin, says Peredo. Make a compress by submerging small cotton towels in cool whole milk and wringing the excess, then apply the towel to your face and/or body. As long as you don’t have a milk allergy, this natural sunburn remedy is safe for pregnant women and children, says Peredo.

5. Vitamin E Oil

“It’s important to treat the sunburn with products that have ingredients like vitamin E, which helps the skin heal,” says Engleman. She likes Bio-Oil Multiuse Skincare Oil for treating mild to moderate sunburns on the face or body because the vitamin E neutralizes free radicals (molecules that are damaging to the skin) and it also contains nourishing and calming ingredients like chamomile oil, calendula oil, and rosemary.

6. Oatmeal

Remember taking oatmeal baths to soothe itchy chicken pox when you were younger? Guanche says oatmeal baths can help ease the pain associated with a mild to moderate sunburn on your face or body. She likes Aveeno Soothing Bath Treatment, which helps relieve irritation and itchiness temporarily. All you have to do is pour a single packet into your bath and lightly rub the oatmeal onto your skin. Just make sure your bath water isn’t too warm, says Guanche, since this can cause further irritation.

7. Lavender Oil

Lavender oil can offer relief from sunburns, says DeMaio. Look for lavender oil in hydrosol mist form, like Plant Therapy’s Organic Lavender Hydrosol. Hydrosol is the liquid that is left over when a plant is turned into an essential oil, and it’s typically less concentrated, says DeMaio, meaning it can soothe without irritating. Because hydrosols aren’t quite as highly concentrated as essential oils, you can apply them to your face as well as your body. DeMaio likes spritzing a lavender hydrosol onto a sunburn a few minutes after applying aloe.

8. Coconut Oil

Coconut oil may soothe and hydrate the skin,” says Guanche. According to a study published in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences, coconut oil can help improve skin barrier function and promote wound healing. Plus, a study published in the journal Dermatitis found that the application of extra virgin coconut oil significantly improved skin dryness. Mix a few drops of an essential oil like lavender into coconut oil before applying it to your face or body, says DeMaio.

9. St. John’s Wort

“As an infused oil, St. John’s wort is amazing for burns,” says DeMaio. “It’s an analgesic, which means it helps reduce the pain associated with sunburns.” A study published in the Journal of Postgraduate Medicine found that applying a St. John’s wort ointment topically to skin helped improve psoriasis lesions. DeMaio says St. John’s wort is particularly useful at the beginning of a sunburn (whether on the face or body) when the pain is at peak levels.
As with lavender, try mixing a few drops of St. John’s wort into coconut oil, or another carrier oil like jojoba, to dilute it so that you can apply it directly to your skin, says DeMaio. You can also find St. John’s wort in hydrosol form, although it’s less common than the oil.

10. Helichrysum

This little-known herb is actually a major sunburn soother. “Helichrysum is an incredible wound healer and skin regenerator,” says DeMaio. It’s great for damaged skin.” A study published in the International Journal of Antimicrobial Agents explains that helichrysum, which comes from a shrub in the Mediterranean, has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. The only downside is that helichrysum is expensive, so you may just want to use it on your face or an area that’s exposed, as opposed to a large area of skin, says DeMaio. Again, mix it with a carrier oil first since, as with all essential oils, it’s potent on its own.

11. Peppermint Tea

“Peppermint is a cooling herb,” says DeMaio. Make a gallon of iced peppermint tea, dip a cotton ball into it, and gently rub it onto your skin wherever you’re burned, she suggests. “You can also address a sunburn from the inside,” says DeMaio. “When you’re burned, your skin is dehydrated, so it’s just as important to make sure you’re increasing liquids.” So try sipping on a glass of peppermint tea, too.
The bottom line: While these natural remedies for sunburn can be used to help relieve the pain and irritation associated with mild to moderate sunburns, head to a doc STAT if your burn is more serious. And do not, we repeat, do not go back into the sun while you’re still burned as doing so can lead to even more skin damage!

Categories
In the Kitchen Nosh

Gardening 101: How To Grow Your Own Herbs

With summer quickly approaching, there’s never been a better time to try your hand at creating your very own indoor herb garden. It turns out there are quite a few herbs that are easy to grow inside, so even those of us who live in teeny-tiny apartments (with no real outdoor garden area to speak of) can get in on the action. Herbs are a great place to start. Not only are many of them easy to grow, but they’re also useful for cooking.
Don’t think you have a green thumb? You don’t need one! We’re outlining exactly how to grow your own herbs indoors, even if you have no prior gardening experience.

Herb Gardening for Beginners: 5 Herbs Anyone Can Grow

“Most herbs are meant to be consumed, so you’re not actually looking to grow them long-term,” says Jon VanZile, master gardener and author of Houseplants for a Healthy Home. Here are five to get you started:

Basil

This Mediterranean herb does best in warm weather, says VanZile. It’s a great addition to lots of foods like pizza, pasta, salads, and sandwiches.

Mint

Mint is super versatile and can be used in sweet and savory dishes, says Jodi Moreno, chef and recipe developer of What’s Cooking Good Looking.

Thyme

Thyme can be used on its own or paired with other herbs like rosemary, says Moreno, making it another versatile option. It’s particularly yummy when used in roasted dishes.  

Parsley

This herb grows all year, can withstand cooler temperatures, and can be added to just about any meal, says Rebecca Lee, registered nurse and founder of the natural home remedy blog Remedies for Me.

Chives

Lee says that chives are hardy, can last through winter, and can be added to just about any dish. Maria Failla, founder and creator of the podcast Bloom and Grow Radio, likes using chives at breakfast time.

Plants you’ll need to get started:

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Benefits of Growing Herbs at Home

Growing herbs relieves stress.

For a study published in the Journal of Health Psychology, participants performed a stressful task, then spent 30 minutes either gardening outdoors or reading a book inside. Both activities lowered their cortisol (aka the stress hormone) levels, but gardening had a bigger effect. “I find plants calming and psychologically wonderful to have at home,” says VanZile. “To be keeping a plant alive in a space, it’s a very nurturing activity.”

Growing herbs makes meal prep a bit easier.

“Certain plants have functional purposes,” says VanZile. The fact that you can eat herbs cuts down on having to run to the supermarket for that ingredient you might have forgotten to put in your cart.

Growing herbs teaches you something useful.

VanZile says he finds growing herbs and caring for them to be very grounding. “Here’s something that you need to take care of almost on a daily basis,” he says. “It brings a kind of very positive discipline to your day and to your life.” Growing herbs is also an educational experience for kids. Sara-Chana Silverstein, master herbalist, has seven kids and has gotten them involved in the process of growing herbs in their tiny Brooklyn apartment. “It was important to me for them to understand how things grow,” she says. “Every spring we make a garden on our fire escape.”

Where to Get Your Herbs

Once you decide which herbs you want to grow in your apartment or house, it’s time to go out and buy them. “Herbs are very, very available,” says VanZile. You can buy them at supermarkets, nurseries, or home improvement stores like Home Depot and Lowe’s.
For true beginners, pre-potted, pre-sprouted herbs are your best bet, says VanZile. “Seedlings require a lot of light to do well—more light than a window can give them,” he says. “So you’re probably going to want to invest in a fluorescent light and tray [if you’re growing seedlings], and suddenly you’re not a beginner anymore.” VanZile says the main reason you’d want to start with seeds is if the herb you’re looking for doesn’t come pre-potted.

How to Create an Indoor Herb Garden

Now that you have your herbs, we’ll teach you how to care for them properly.

Place your herbs in the right spot.

All herbs should be placed in a sunny spot with south-, east-, or west-facing windows being the best choices, says VanZile. “Avoid a north-facing window because there’s just not enough sunlight,” he says. Failla, who lives in an apartment in New York City, says it’s ideal for indoor herbs to get six to eight hours of direct sunlight per day. VanZile says as long as you have a window that gets some sunlight, you shouldn’t need to invest in any fancy equipment. If you truly don’t have any space for herbs near a window, you can invest in a fluorescent light setup, although this may be costly. Modernsprout’s Growhouse ($150) was designed for indoor spaces and features full spectrum LED lights.

Know when to water your herbs.

VanZile doesn’t like to give a hard-and-fast rule about how often you should water your herbs because it really depends on where you live. If you’re in Arizona and it’s 110 degrees outside, you may need to water your herbs more frequently than someone who lives in a cooler or more humid climate. The best thing you can do is pay attention to how your herbs and the soil look. “If you need a marker, use the surface of the soil as a gauge,” says VanZile. “If the surface of the soil is dry and starting to contract, your herb probably needs water.” If an herb starts to get droopy, that means it needs more water, says VanZile, while if it starts to get yellow, it’s getting too much water.

Don’t let your herbs sit in water.

“All indoor plants need really good drainage,” says VanZile. Let the water run out of the bottom of the pot (the pot should have drainage holes in it), and then empty the saucer underneath the pot once the soil is drained. “Never let a potted plant sit in water because this will rot the roots and be terrible for the plant,” says VanZile.

Pick the right soil.

VanZile says the right soil will help with water drainage and ensure your herbs have a healthy lifespan. He suggests using a fortified soil like Miracle-Gro, which you can find at nurseries, grocery stores, and Home Depot or Lowe’s.

Get rid of bugs without chemicals.

“There are pests that are going to be attracted to herbs for sure,” says VanZile. If you suspect there are critters on your herbs, lift, look under, and brush the leaves to see if anything flies off. Check for little dots that look like mites, because almost every bug is going to leave behind some trace that it’s living there. Scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites, and whiteflies are the most common pests.
VanZile doesn’t do anything until he actually knows his plants have bugs on them. Then, the rule of thumb would be to start with the least toxic option. Take your herb to the sink, turn on your spray faucet, and spray the bugs off. “Do that several times over the course of a week to blow away any bugs, larvae, or eggs,” says VanZile. If that doesn’t work, try neem oil. “It’s generally non-toxic and is a very gentle product,” says VanZile. “I would never use a strong pesticide on an herb I was going to eat. I would just throw it out and buy another one. They’re cheap, so the margin for error here is tremendous.”

Determine when your herbs are ready to use.

“As soon as your herb has mature leaves on it at all, it’s ready to eat,” says VanZile. “Once flowers start to appear, that means it’s probably near the end of its lifespan and is getting bitter, so it won’t be as tasty.”
If you’re growing herbs from seeds, it’s usually 30 to 45 days before you can harvest the plants, says Failla. When you are harvesting your herbs, be gentle, says Lee, since tugging at the leaves can strain the plant and dislodge the roots.

How to Cook with Your Herbs

“You can mix basil into so many different kinds of pastas,” says Moreno, “and it’s great as a garnish.” She suggests using it as one of the main components in an herby salad. VanZile uses basil a lot, making pizza at least once a week. Failla and her boyfriend make basil-walnut pesto. “Any dish you make is elevated by some fresh basil on top,” says Failla. “It can be something so basic, like tomatoes with basil and a little sea salt.” You can use parsley in pesto or as a garnish as well.
Moreno uses mint in tea and in smoothies. “I also love to throw a little mint in sauces, even if the recipe doesn’t call for mint,” she says. “It adds a pop of brightness that you’re not expecting.” Moreno says that mint is also a great addition to salads when used sparingly. “It can really overpower a dish if you use too much,” she says. Meanwhile, cucumber-mint yogurt is a favorite of Failla’s.
Thyme is a great herb for roasting veggies, meat, chicken, and fish, says Moreno. “I usually pair thyme and rosemary together,” she says, “but if I were to use one on its own, it would be thyme.” Failla says she makes cheesy scrambled eggs with them. Sometimes she’ll shred potatoes, sautee them with a little salt, let them sit and get crispy like hash browns, and add the cheesy eggs on top.

How to Dry Your Herbs

Dry your homegrown herbs by cutting off the stems, tying them, and hanging them upside down in a cool, dark, dry place, says Lee. The flavor of dried herbs takes more time to come out, so you should plan to use them earlier on in the cooking process to let their flavor bloom, while fresh herbs don’t need to be added until later on, says Moreno.
Dried herbs are a great option in the wintertime if you’re making a soup or stew that takes hours to cook, while fresh herbs are a great to add to condiments like salsa that you can whip together in a few minutes, says Moreno.

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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

No Makeup Makeup: How To Master Makeup Minimalism

Minimalism is all the rage these days, with just about everyone and their mother opting for a life free of clutter and embracing the less-is-more philosophy. And that trend has translated into beauty, with no makeup makeup becoming one of the go-to looks on red carpets and runways in the last couple of years.
The thing is, while no makeup makeup comes across as relatively low-key, it actually takes a bit more effort to do than you might think. That doesn’t mean no makeup makeup is super complicated—it’s pretty simple once you get the hang of it.
We talked to three top makeup artists to get their best tips for creating a no makeup makeup look that’s perfect for the office, date night, and more.

Wait, so what is no makeup makeup, exactly?

Contrary to what it sounds like, no makeup makeup isn’t the same as going makeup-free.
“For the no makeup makeup look, it’s about attempting to look as natural as possible with product,” explains Camara Aunique, celebrity makeup artist. In essence, it’s about enhancing what you’ve got without actually appearing as if you’re wearing any makeup at all, says Sophia Porter, makeup artist and hairstylist in Chicago.
A typical no makeup makeup routine requires a decent amount of products, but it’s not so many that a beginner will feel overwhelmed. Some of the products you’ll want to have on hand include a lightweight base (think tinted moisturizer or BB cream), brightening concealer, highlighter, sheer lip color, and a natural-looking mascara and eyebrow groomer. No cobalt blue eyeliner or vampy lipstick here!
Makeup artist Mary Irwin says skin prep is also an important part of no makeup makeup because following a solid skincare routine will ensure your complexion is in optimal condition for makeup application.

Why is no makeup makeup having a moment right now?

There are a few reasons why no makeup makeup is surging in popularity these days.
For starters, Porter says many of her private clients are turning to no makeup makeup because they’re sick of the overdone beauty trends they’ve seen on Instagram. (Think feather eyebrows, ombré lashes, and contoured-to-the-extreme complexions.)
They feel as if those beauty trends are too clownish, and they just want to look fresh without looking like there was too much effort involved,” she says. Porter adds that no makeup makeup is timeless and won’t ever go out of style, so there’s no risk of looking like you’re not up-to-date with the latest beauty trends.
Lately, women have been moving toward embracing what they’ve got (whether that’s freckles, acne, wrinkles—you name it) and away from hiding their faces under thick layers of foundation and concealer. “Women want to look like themselvesjust slightly enhanced,” says Aunique. “They want to see their freckles. Women are loving the skin they’re in more and more, and I love it.”
Irwin cites Christina Aguilera (who had a “makeunder” for a recent Paper Magazine cover) and Alicia Keys (who decided to ditch makeup altogether a couple of years ago) as celebs who’ve embraced their skin, inspiring no makeup makeup to stick around.
Finally, although creating a no makeup makeup look involves using a bunch of products, it’s something that can be done relatively quickly. “It’s simpleonly a few steps, and anyone can do it,” says Irwin.

How do you do no makeup makeup?

Want to hop on the no makeup makeup bandwagon? We’ve got you covered. Follow our step-by-step guide to doing a no makeup makeup look on your own.

Step 1: Work through your skincare routine.

The most important step is having a well-rounded skincare routine to prepare your canvas,” says Porter, who recommends keeping an emphasis on hydration so you end up with a glow.
Porter likes using facial oil before makeup to get a dewy baseshe just recommends being careful about which one you choose. If you have oily or acne-prone skin, for example, you’ll want to make sure you pick a non-comedogenic facial oil, like Dr. Hauschka Clarifying Day Oil ($45), since that won’t clog pores. Porter is a fan of NOW Organic Argan Oil ($30) for dry skin, which easily absorbs for glowing skin sans grease.
You only need to apply facial oil sparingly to the high points of your face (your temples, brow bones, cheekbones, jawbone, cupid’s bow, and down the bridge of your nose) to get a glow.

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Step 2: Lay your base with tinted moisturizer or foundation.

If you find your makeup regularly wears away by midday (this can happen if you’re oily), start with a primer, says Irwin, who likes the Heir Atelier Face Primer ($42). “It smoothes skin and makes a world of difference in how the makeup wears,” she says. Then, move on to applying tinted moisturizer, BB cream, or a small amount of foundation.
For seamless coverage, Porter suggests buffing thin layers of your product into your skin starting from the center of your face and working outward for a seamless effect. You can do so with a makeup sponge, like the beauty industry favorite Beautyblender ($20). For a base, Porter likes Kevyn Aucoin The Sensual Skin Enhancer Concealer and Foundation ($48), which comes in 16 shades ranging in skin tones and undertones, as well as Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation ($64), which comes in 24 hues and has a glowy finish and lightweight texture.
Irwin recommends Laura Mercier because the brand offers multiple formulas and finishes for different skin types and tones. She says Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 – Illuminating ($45) has a particularly stunning finish.

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Step 3: Conceal.

You shouldn’t be heavy-handed with concealer because it can end up looking cakey, says Porter. Just dab on a tiny bit sparingly to any areas that need it, such as blemishes or dark circles underneath your eyes.
Porter recommends Giorgio Armani Maestro Corrector ($40) for dark circles, while Irwin is obsessed with NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer ($30) and Aunique likes MAC Cosmetics Mineralize Concealer ($24). Aunique opts to apply concealer with her fingers and sets it with Dior Diorskin Forever & Ever Control Invisible Loose Setting Powder ($52).

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Step 4: Add a pop of color to your cheeks.

It’s easy to go overboard with blush, but that doesn’t mean you should skip it.
Porter suggests using an itty-bitty bit of blush for the slightest hint of color. You can easily do that by applying a sheer cream blush with your fingers to the apples of your cheeks. Porter is a fan of Glossier Cloud Paint ($18), while Irwin notes that Stila Convertible Colors ($25) are a makeup-artist staple. “Just swipe a little bit on the apples of your cheeks and blend with your fingers,” says Irwin. “It can also work as your lip color. Pat it in with your fingers, just like on your cheeks.”
If you prefer powder blush, Aunique says NARS Blush in Orgasm ($30) suits everyone—it’s a classic for a reason.

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Step 5: Highlight key areas of your face.

Next, highlight the high points of your face to really brighten up your appearance, recommends Porter.
One of her favorite highlighters is RMS Living Luminizer ($38), which can be applied with your fingers for a super sheer highlight.

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Step 6: Groom your brows.

Once you’re done concealing, move on to your brows. “Don’t paint them on,” says Irwin, “but fill in any sparse areas and use a tinted gel to hold them in place.”
Try Benefit Cosmetics 24-HR Brow Setter Shaping & Setting Gel ($24).

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Step 7: Go easy on the mascara.

Super black mascara is great for a night out, but when it comes to no makeup makeup, brown or black/brown will give you a more natural look, says Porter, who adds that you should stick to one coat for no makeup makeup.
Aunique recommends Lancome for their wide variety of mascara formulas. Lancome Definicils – High Definition Mascara in Brown ($27.50) is a good everyday pick.

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Step 8: Swipe on tinted lip balm.

Steer clear of bright colors, and pick up something that looks like your lips but better.
Porter says Perricone MD No Lipstick Lipstick SPF 15 ($30) fits the bill (and the name fits our theme!). Irwin loves Fresh Sugar Lip Treatment SPF 15 ($24) because there are a ton of shades, and the formula moisturizes while providing that hint of color.

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Step 9: Set your no makeup makeup look.

And now we’ve come to the end! Under 10 steps isn’t too bad.
All you have to do is spritz your face with a mist to set your makeup and add a glowy sheen, says Porter, who likes Tatcha Dewy Skin Mist ($48).

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No Makeup Makeup Hacks for Busy Days

Even if you don’t have time for a full no makeup makeup routine, you can simplify things and still give the trend a whirl.
Hit snooze one too many times? You can always pair clean skin with a little lipstick, says Irwin.
For a bit more coverage, combine foundation and highlighter to get your glow in less time. Mix one drop of highlighter (Aunique likes MAC Cosmetics Strobe Cream) into one pump of your foundation, combining the two in your hands, and press it into your skin.
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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

The ABCs Of SPF: Everything You Need To Know About Sunscreen

You’ve probably heard a million times that wearing sunscreen is critical for your skin’s health—and ideally, you sport SPF on the daily, even when it’s not sunny out. (The sun can still damage your skin when it’s cloudy, FYI.)
Even if that’s not quite the case, with summer quickly approaching, we get that you might be thinking a whole lot more about sunscreen now than you did in the dead of winter. But how much do you actually know about what SPF is and how it works?
Understanding SPF will go a long way in using it properly to protect your skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays.

What does SPF actually mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, and it’s a measure of how long a sunscreen will protect you from UVB rays, says Fayne Frey, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in West Nyack, New York. The number next to SPF (e.g. 15 or 30) tells you how much time it’d take for your skin to turn red while wearing SPF compared to how long it’d take your skin to turn red without wearing SPF.
For example, if it would take 20 minutes for your skin to burn without sunscreen, using an SPF 15 sunscreen would prevent burning for 15 times longer, which is about 5 hours, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.
That doesn’t mean SPF 100 offers a ton more protection than SPF 15 or 30 though. The Skin Cancer Foundation also notes that SPF 15 blocks about 93 percent of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks about 97 percent of UVB rays, and SPF 50 blocks about 98 percent of UVB rays.
And even if you’re using a high SPF, it’s not going to do much for you unless you remember to reapply it regularly. Keep reading to find expert tips on applying sunscreen efficiently.

Is SPF all you have to look for on a sunscreen label?

Nope. To shield your skin against both UVA and UVB rays, you have to look for the phrase “broad-spectrum” on sunscreen labels, says Tsippora Shainhouse, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles and clinical instructor at the University of Southern California.
The sun emits three types of rays: UVA, UVB, and UVC. “UVA rays have the longest wavelengths, UVB rays have shorter wavelengths, and UVC rays are even shorter,” says Frey. “UVC rays don’t reach Earth’s surface, so you don’t have to worry about them.”
Because of their longer wavelengths, UVA rays have the ability to penetrate deeper into your skin than UVB rays, and they are the ones that can contribute to the formation of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation that show up years later, says Frey. “UVA rays were never really thought to cause burns and cancer, but recently we’ve learned that that’s not the case,” says Frey. “Research shows that UVA rays do cause skin cancer.”
UVB rays, which damage the top layer of your skin, are responsible for sunburns as well as skin cancer. (An easy way to remember what’s what? Think A for accelerated aging and B for burns, says beauty industry chemist David Pollock.)
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In 2011, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) updated its guidelines for how sunscreens are sold in the U.S. Manufacturers now have to pass a specific test if they want to label a sunscreen broad-spectrum in an effort to ensure that what you buy will actually protect you from UVA and UVB rays.
Additionally, sunscreen labels can no longer say waterproof on them, says Shainhouse. “Instead, the label will read ‘water-resistant,’ which means that it will last up to 80 minutes in water or with profuse sweating,” says Shainhouse.
And, fun fact: Brands can no longer call their products sunblock, either. “There is no such word as sunblock anymore because you cannot completely block the UV rays with a topical cream,” says Shainhouse. Hence the term sunscreen.

What happens when you skip SPF?

We get it: Sometimes life happens, and you just don’t have the time to apply sunscreen. But if you’re thinking this is an unnecessary step in your daily skincare routine, you might want to change your tune.
Beyond shielding yourself from sunburns, broad-spectrum sunscreen helps protect you from premature aging caused by UVA rays. “Sunscreen should be applied on your face and hands every day,” says Frey. “You get more sun just going about your day—walking to your car and mailbox—than you do on those few days you spend on the beach. Sun damage accumulates.” Even sitting by a window or being stuck in traffic could leave you vulnerable. “UVA rays penetrate through glass,” says Frey, “so even when you’re driving, you get exposure.”
If you were to compare the face, hands, and neck of a middle-aged person to their butt, well, the commonly exposed areas would likely look a whole lot older if sun protection wasn’t a priority, says Frey. Sure, you don’t need to wear SPF under your clothes in January, but “it’s truly necessary for people to apply sunscreen [to exposed areas] every day of the year,” says Frey.
According to a 2014 study published in the journal Molecules, it’s possible that UV exposure in general accounts for as much as 80 percent of visible aging signs, like lines, dryness, and hyperpigmentation—and that this photoaging is associated with an increased risk for skin cancer.
Per the American Cancer Society, skin cancer is the most common type of cancer. Basal and squamous cell carcinomas (the two most-diagnosed forms of skin cancer) are typically found on areas that are exposed to the sun, like your head, neck, and arms. Basal and squamous cell carcinoma are easily treatable if caught early, but melanoma, which is less common, is harder to treat because it grows and spreads quickly.
Research has found that using sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher curbs your risk of squamous cell carcinoma by 40 percent and your risk of melanoma by 50 percent, says Shainhouse.

What’s the best SPF formula?

SPF isn’t one size fits all, and now that you know why it’s crucial to apply SPF, it’s time to find the formula that best suits you.
There are actually two types of sunscreen: chemical and physical. Chemical ingredients like avobenzone absorb UV rays and keep them from penetrating your skin, says Frey. Physical (or mineral) sunscreen contains ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that sit on top of your skin and deflect UV rays, says Shainhouse.
There are pros and cons to both, though. Chemical sunscreens typically have more cosmetically elegant formulas (meaning they don’t leave a white film and won’t mess with your makeup, says Frey). Shainhouse adds that chemical sunscreens are also more likely to have accurate SPF levels. Still, some ingredients in chemical sunscreens, like oxybenzone, can be highly irritating, especially if you’re prone to sensitivity, says Pollock.
Overall, Pollock prefers a physical sunscreen that’s formulated with a combo of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection with the least amount of irritation.
Pollock notes that if you’re looking for a more natural, potentially safer SPF option, then you’re going to want to use a physical sunscreen. It may leave a white cast on your skin, says Frey, but with newer formulations, this is becoming less of a problem. It’s important to note that physical sunscreen rubs off more easily, so it may need to be reapplied more frequently, says Shainhouse.
Because of the possibility for irritation, physical sunscreen is also the best option for babies, says Frey. However, she points out that “baby sunscreen” is almost completely a marketing ploy. Almost all baby and kid sunscreens have physical formulas, and they often have the same exact formulas as other sunscreens, just with a different label on the front. The only thing that might be different about baby sunscreen is that it’d probably be fragrance-free, says Pollock, since fragrance is an irritant.
“At the end of the day, the FDA only looks at actives [in sunscreen],” says Pollock. “The government doesn’t care if it’s for a baby or a 90-year-old. They only care about whether it blocks the sun.”
Finally, keep the environment in mind. A 2008 study published in the journal Environmental Health Perspectives found that chemical sunscreens can cause coral reef damage. The researchers found that at least 25 percent of sunscreen is washed off while swimming within 20 minutes. The National Park Service advises using physical sunscreen, since titanium dioxide and zinc oxide haven’t been found to damage reefs.

What’s the best form of sunscreen?

Once you choose between chemical and physical SPF, you then have to decide which form of sunscreen to wear. You have a lot of options, from lotions to sprays to sticks.
Lotions give you better control because you can see exactly how much you’re applying, says Pollock, while sprays are super convenient and a great pick for the laziest among us, he says. Personally, Pollock is a fan of stick sunscreen for the forehead and around the eyes. That’s because if you’re using a chemical SPF lotion on your face, and you sweat, it could run into your eyes and cause burning, whereas a stick won’t run.  
Experts say they’re all relatively effective—as long as you apply and reapply—so it’s more about personal preference.
The only caveat is when it comes to makeup with SPF. “It’s better than nothing, but the truth is most people don’t put makeup on thick enough,” says Frey. “It’s best to put sunscreen on first.”

What’s the best way to apply sunscreen?

“The most important thing isn’t what number you use, it’s how you use it,” says Frey. “Even if you use SPF 100, you’re not going to get the SPF 100 protection unless you do it correctly.”
Chemical SPF takes about 15 minutes to absorb, so you have to apply it before you go outside according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Experts recommend using at least one ounce (which is about the size of a shot glass) to cover exposed areas.
One ounce is usually sufficient to cover exposed skin in an adult from head to toe,” says Shainhouse. “I usually recommend a nickel-sized dollop for face and ears or a quarter-sized if you’re including your entire neckfront, sides, and back.” This is all dependent on body size, says Frey—someone larger would need to apply more. (Commonly overlooked areas include the tops of the feet, scalp, ears, and around bathing suit edges, says Frey, so don’t forget about protecting those places, too!)
If you’re using an SPF lotion, gel, or oil, rub it in thoroughly for maximum benefits. If you’re using a  spray SPF sunscreen, you also have to rub that in, but you should apply a second layer to make sure you’re not missing any spots, says Shainhouse. “Spray sunscreens are only effective if applied properly, which means holding the bottle two to three inches from the skin and spraying a stream onto the skin,” she says. Just don’t spray SPF directly onto your face, since it can get into your lungs and irritate them, says Frey. If you are planning to use spray sunscreen on your face, spray it into your hands first and pat it onto your face.
As far as reapplication goes, experts recommend doing so approximately every two hours. Because the UVA protection begins to break down after two hours, sunscreen should be reapplied every two to three hours if you are out in the sun,” says Shainhouse. “They should be reapplied more frequently if you sweat profusely or go swimming.”
There are other sun protection measures you should take besides applying sunscreen, the biggest being avoiding midday sun exposure, says Frey, since the sun is at its peak between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Other than that, throw on a hat to shield your scalp and sunglasses to protect your eyes. UPF clothing is an effective way to protect your skin, too. “Some of the fabrics are fantastic,” says Frey. When it comes to clothing in general, Frey says that darker tops are better because the sun can get through white t-shirts.

How do you pick the best SPF?

As with any other skincare product, keep your skin type and lifestyle in mind when choosing an SPF sunscreen.
SPF for acne-prone skin: Look for a non-comedogenic, oil-free formula, like Neutrogena Clear Face Sunscreen Lotion ($12), which is formulated with chemical SPF and won’t clog pores or cause breakouts.
SPF for oily skin: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 ($33) is formulated with lactic acid, which unclogs pores and curbs shine, making it a perfect chemical SPF pick for oily skin.
SPF for dry skin: Hydrate dry skin with a moisturizer with SPF like Paula’s Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer with SPF 50 ($33), which contains nourishing shea butter and has a chemical SPF formulation.
SPF for sensitive skin: Choose a physical sunscreen, like Avene Mineral Ultra-Light Hydrating Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+ ($28), which features the brand’s soothing spring water.
SPF with anti-aging benefits: Packed with antioxidants, Drunk Elephant Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 ($34) is a mineral SPF sunscreen that protects against free radical damage that can cause wrinkles.  
SPF for makeup prep: Avoid your foundation slicking by applying Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 40 ($32) before makeup. It has an oil-controlling formula that leaves skin with a velvety finish.
SPF for lips and ears: Reach for an easy-to-apply stick SPF sunscreen, like Bare Republic Mineral Sport Sunscreen Stick SPF 50 ($10), to cover these often-forgotten areas.
SPF for body: La Roche Posay Anthelios Face & Body Melt-In Sunscreen Milk SPF 60 ($36) is a classic for a reason. It has a non-greasy, oil-free formula that absorbs easily into skin without clogging pores.
SPF for beach trips: Spray your arms and legs with reef-safe All Good Sport Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 ($17), and relax while staring out into the ocean.
SPF for on-the-go touch-ups: When you’re in need of a quick SPF touch-up, that’s the time to reach for a powder sunscreen, like Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50 ($65), which provides mineral protection and won’t mess with makeup.
Regardless of which sunscreen you use, know that SPF has about a three-year shelf life, says Frey. That being said, because you should wear sunscreen on exposed areas every day, your bottle or tube of SPF shouldn’t come close to lasting for three years.

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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

We’re Breaking Down The Korean Skincare Routine So You Can Try It Without Confusion

Unless you’re a complete beauty newb, chances are you’ve at least heard of the epicness that is the Korean skincare routine. In case you need a refresher, the typical Korean skincare routine consists of a whopping 10 steps, with each serving a unique purpose. While Korean skincare may seem daunting at first, once you find the best Korean skincare products for your skin type and concerns, you’ll get your own routine on lock.
Here, learn all about why you should commit to a Korean skincare routine and get product recs tailored to you, straight from top experts in the Korean skincare industry.

Beauty 101: What is a Korean skincare routine, and why is it so popular?

A typical Korean skincare routine includes everything from double cleansing to treating skin concerns with products like essences and ampoules to intensely moisturizing.
Korean skincare involves a lot of steps with a major focus on hydration, says Michelle Wong, PhD, who writes about the science behind beauty products on her website Lab Muffin.
Craig Kraffert, MD, board-certified dermatologist and president of Amarte, a skincare brand that launched in Korea in the ’90s, says the multistep Korean skincare routine was born out of an obsession with the Korean concept that skincare is a privileged activity of “indulgence, enjoyment, and self-respect.”
Alicia Yoon, founder of K-beauty brand Peach & Lily, says the overall goal of Korean skincare is to create a healthy glow, and the routine resonates with people because it’s a unique take on skincare. “There’s a little bit more of a long-term approach to achieving a healthy outcome for skin,” says Yoon. “It’s not about expecting overnight results from something like a very intensive peel.”
Korean skincare products also play a role in the popularity of the multistep routine. Kraffert, who founded Dermstore, has had the opportunity to try skincare products from all over the world and says that Korean skincare products have been more aesthetically pleasing and pleasant to use than ones made in America or Europe.
“The state-of-the-art Korean skincare technologies—and there are several—really do lead the world,” says Kraffert. “The Korean government has actively participated in nurturing the skincare product manufacturing industry through partnerships with academia to advance R&D [research and development] efforts.”
Besides their advanced formulas, the packaging of many Korean skincare products is totally adorable. Many of them come housed in the cutest containers, and that adds to the appeal, says Yoon.
The proliferation of Korean movies and music to the West in the last few years is also piquing people’s interest in Korean skincare, says Kraffert. “Starting in the second half of the ’90s, the Korean wave swept across Asia, and, more recently, is sweeping across both America and Europe,” he says. “This began with drama productions. Korean actresses and their legendary beauty are revered across Asia. The Korean penchant for excellence in plastic surgery is also well known.”
Couple that with the high-tech product formulations and a historical obsession with skincare, and it makes sense that Korean skincare has taken off around the globe.

East vs. West: What are the major differences between Western and Korean skincare routines?

“Western beauty routines usually contain [fewer] steps, harsher active ingredients, and less of a focus on moisturization,” says Wong. While the Western world is slowly becoming more and more influenced by Korean skincare routines, she says, we tend to combine steps with multi-use products, whereas a Korean skincare routine separates everything out.
“In a Korean skincare routine, you’ll have a lot more steps,” Wong explains. “For example, cleansing will involve two steps—this is known as double-cleansing—and there will be multiple steps that deliver active ingredients to your skin, like essences and serums.”
Wong adds that Asian skin is generally more prone to dehydration, which is why moisturization plays such a huge role. Asian skin is also more prone to hyperpigmentation, says Wong, so pigmentation-lightening ingredients like niacinamide and kojic acid—both rarely seen in American and European beauty products—are in a lot of Korean skincare products.
Sarah Chung, CEO of Landing International, an online marketplace that connects global brands and retailers, says that Korean skincare tends to be a lot stronger when it comes to the nutrient stage of the routine. While we sometimes include serums (or a similar product like an essence or ampoule) in our skincare routines here in the U.S., in Korea this is considered a vital step that would never be skipped, says Chung.
Korean skincare also places a big emphasis on preventive measures, says Yoon, which is different from in the U.S., where we tend to wait until our skin is damaged and then try to reverse it. That’s why you’ll always find sunscreen in a Korean skincare routine.

How to Put Together a Korean Skincare Routine

So now you know why Korean skincare is trending and what the benefits of a Korean skincare routine are, but what about actually following the 10-step process? We’re making it easy with our step-by-step guide.

Step 1: Use an oil cleanser.

Oil cleansers are great because they gently remove impurities (like dirt and makeup) from your skin without having to resort to tugging or pulling, says Yoon. She says people with any skin type—even oily skin—can use an oil cleanser.
Yoon’s favorite oil cleanser is Aromatica Natural Coconut Cleansing Oil ($45), which dissolves impurities without leaving any residue and can be used by all skin types. Chung is a fan of oil cleansers that come in a balm form, like SkinRx Lab MadeCera Cleansing Balm ($26), because they’re travel-friendly. “The solid format means you can put them in your bag and go anywhere,” she says.

Step 2: Cleanse again.

“In a way that is analogous to shampooing—wash, rinse, repeat—double cleansing of the skin can provide improved removal of oil, keratin, and assorted microscopic skin debris,” says Kraffert. He says that while you can double cleanse no matter your skin type, it might be more beneficial for those who are on the oilier side.
If you’re going to double cleanse, Kraffert suggests choosing a gentle yet deep-cleansing foam cleanser, like Amarte Daily Wonder Cleansing Foam ($40), for this step. It’s formulated with hyaluronic acid, which is one of the most hydrating ingredients out there. “High-quality facial cleansers typically do not lead to dry skin, even with double cleansing,” he says.
Yoon is a fan of Shangpree S-Energy Facial Mousse Cleanser ($35), particularly for sensitive skin. “It’s made by the best spa in Korea,” she says, referring to Seoul’s Shangpree Spa. “It’s a water-based cleanser that doesn’t have any sulfates. It’s really beautiful and doesn’t disrupt the skin at all.

Step 3: Exfoliate (once or twice a week).

You don’t have to exfoliate every day. Once or twice a week tops should do, says Yoon. Exfoliating rids the surface of your skin of dulling, pore-clogging impurities, but over-exfoliating could irritate your skin and lead to even more issues, she warns.
There are two types of exfoliators to choose from: physical ones (like scrubs and microfiber cloths), which manually buff off dead skin cells, and chemical ones (like glycolic and lactic acids), which loosen dead skin cells so they come off more easily, says Wong.
Chemical exfoliators can also be formulated with plant enzymes, such as pumpkin, pineapple, or papaya extracts, says Wong. Be The Skin Non-Stimulus Face Polisher ($29), which Yoon loves, relies on plant extracts for exfoliation and is suitable for all skin types. Kraffert recommends Amarte Daily ExfoliPowder ($37), which utilizes ultra-fine corn starch for very gentle manual exfoliation (it can even be swapped in for the second half of your daily double cleanse, he says).
Chung cites Wish Formula C200 Bubble Peeling Pad for Face ($26) as an innovative chemical exfoliant. It comes with a pad that you soak in an exfoliating serum—which contains AHAs, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid—and wipe over your face.

Step 4: Tone.

“Korean toners are very hydrating,” says Yoon. “They’re not astringent.” They’re awesome at balancing your skin’s pH and kickstarting the hydration portion of your routine, she says.

As for when to apply it, Yoon says, “You don’t want your skin to be totally dry when you apply toner. You should apply it within five seconds of washing your face.”

Yoon recommends Be the Skin, a beauty line that offers toners for all different skin types, like the Botanical Pore Toner ($25) for oily and acne-prone skin, Purifying White Waterful Toner ($29) for dull skin, Botanical Nutrition Power Toner ($29) for dry skin, and Botanical Nutrition Toner ($29) for normal skin.

Landing International’s best-known brand in the U.S. is COSRX, and they also offer a variety of toners for different concerns, says Chung. One of the newest and most popular toners from the brand is the Poreless Power Liquid ($22), which cleans and tightens pores without stripping skin. She also likes the COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads ($20), pre-soaked toning pads that fight acne without drying out skin.

Step 5: Apply essence.

Essences are likely the products you’re most unfamiliar with in the Korean skincare routine. They were developed in Korea, and while they’re similar in appearance and texture to toners, they don’t serve the same purpose. Essences are meant to be hydrating, not cleansing, says Yoon.

Wong says that they often contain ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, while Kraffert compares essences to serums and says they may even be preferred over serums if you have dry skin.

Yoon recommends Eco Your Skin’s essences for their unique formula that can be layered on. “You can apply one layer or 20 layers, and your skin keeps drinking it up,” she says. The brand offers a Moisturizing Layering Essence, Lifting Layering Essence, Soothing Layering Essence, Spot Care Layering Essence, Oily Layering Essence, and Anti-Wrinkle Layering Essence (all $25).

Step 6: Layer on a serum or ampoule.

“In Korean skincare, serums usually target wrinkles, dullness, and pigmentation,” says Wong.

Yoon says you can use a serum (a lightweight, watery skincare product that penetrates deeply into your skin to deliver nutrients) or an ampoule (a souped-up version of a serum with a slightly more potent formula).

Yoon loves Shangpree S-energy Long Lasting Concentrated Serum ($120). “It’s good for all skin types,” she says. “It’s a lightweight clear gel that absorbs into skin and is proven to help with fine lines and wrinkles.”

Kraffert says the Amarte Aqua Veil Pure Hydration Serum ($57) has a water-rich formula that provides tons of hydration so that skin can withstand harsh environments. Chung says Skin&Lab Red Serum ($35) helps improve the texture of skin and is very high in antioxidants. “Anyone I recommend that to falls in love with it,” she says.

If you want to try an ampoule, Wish Formula offers a few, says Chung. The I’m Pro Ampoule Pad – C ($32) nourishes skin with plant extracts, while the I’m Pro Ampoule Pad – M brightens dull skin with vitamin C ($32).

Step 7: Pop on a sheet mask (a few times a week).

Like essences and ampoules, sheet masks are quintessential parts of a Korean skincare routine. These fabric face masks are soaked in concentrated serums and are generally used two or three times a week.
“Sheet masks hydrate your skin and can help the underlying products sink into the skin,” says Wong. Don’t wash your face after using a sheet mask, Chung notes. Since sheet masks are packed with serum, pat the serum into your skin after taking the mask off.
Yoon says Peach & Lily sheet masks are formulated without alcohol, fragrances, or harsh ingredients, all of which could irritate skin. “They’re filled with lots of skin-enhancing ingredients and are gentle enough to use even daily,” she says. The Good Skin Day Drench + Nourish Sheet Mask hydrates and brightens, the Chubby Cheeks Lift + Plump Sheet Mask perks up sagging skin, and the Reset Button Soothe + Restore Sheet Mask calms irritated skin (all $6).

Step 8: Dab on an eye cream.

The delicate skin around your eyes deserves attention, too! “It’s super important to keep the skin around your eyes moisturized,” says Kraffert. Because it’s so fragile, this skin is prone to dryness and showing signs of aging like dark circles and crow’s feet. Kraffert recommends using eye cream twice daily and patting it into your skin with gentle pressure.
For fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, Kraffert says the gold star ingredient is retinol, which you can find in Amarte Eyeconic Eye Cream ($80). “Retinol is one of the most effective cosmetic anti-aging ingredients and is proven, via rigorous studies, to improve conditions associated with chronological aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines,” he says.
Yoon likes Eco Your Skin Volufiline15 Eye Essence ($70). “It sinks really deep into skin,” she says. “It’s formulated with peptides and niacinamide and is firming and brightening. It fills in fine lines for flawless and creaseless makeup application.”

Step 9: Moisturize.

The ultimate goal of Korean skincare is a glowing complexion, which means moisturizer is a non-negotiable morning and night. For oily skin, choose an oil-free formula for daytime, and for dry skin, choose something heavier (moisturizers in jars are often richer), says Wong. Avoid heavy fragrances if you have sensitive skin.
Yoon says the Peach & Lily Peach Slices Aqua Glow ($12) combines serum and moisturizer and works on all skin types to brighten and hydrate. “You can use one layer for oily skin or five layers for dry skin,” she says. “It doesn’t pill, it’s non-comedogenic, and it primes your face for makeup.” Chung likes Skin & Lab Red Cream ($35), which has an antioxidant-packed gel–cream formula to soften lines and plump up skin.
“Sleeping masks or sleeping packs are a Korean product that I’ve found really useful for preventing dehydration, especially in dry winter weather,” says Wong. “You layer them over the rest of your skincare routine to help seal in moisture.” Try Laneige Water Sleeping Mask ($25), which has a gel formula that hydrates while you sleep.

Step 10: Protect your skin from the sun (in the morning).

“Sunscreen still remains the most important weapon in preventing premature skin aging and skin cancer, especially because these problems occur in frequently exposed areas including the face, neck, upper chest, arms, and hands,” says Kraffert.
Pick one that’s broad-spectrum (that means it protects against UVA and UVB rays) and SPF 30 or higher, says Kraffert. “Apply SPF over your moisturizer and under your makeup,” he says. He recommends Amarte Ultra Veil Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 50 ($56), which is broad-spectrum and water resistant, contains brightening antioxidants, and has a semi-matte finish that won’t leave a greasy or chalky residue.
The bottom line: Sure, following a Korean skincare routine might take you a few extra minutes, but you’ll get the hang of it after some practice, we promise! Plus, when you see that radiant glow shining back at you from the mirror, we have a feeling you’ll think the added time has been worth it.