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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

What Do "Organic" And “Natural” Really Mean When It Comes To Your Beauty Products?

The phrase you vote with your dollars rings true in every facet of retail. You have the option to shop at businesses that practice sustainability, to devour food from companies whose morals align with your own, and to slather on face creams made with naturally-sourced ingredients.

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That said, there’s a tricky element here that many people may not consider. When you really get down to it, how transparent and honest are all these companies, and just how true are their claims?
As an example: According to USDA guidelines, the term “free range” on your carton of eggs simply means that the poultry has been allowed access outside at some point in the day. For some husbandries, that may equate to letting chickens into ultra-cramped outdoor quarters for an hour a day—not quite the vision of jolly, free-range chickens frolicking in rolling green pastures we all have in our heads.
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Naturally, we were curious about whether these lax, often misleading label regulations also apply to the skincare market. What do “natural” and “organic” really mean when it comes to your beauty products? And how do you make sure you’re spending your dollars in the right place?
For the answers to those questions, we consulted the FDA guidelines (spoiler: they’re pretty nondescript) and a handful of experts, including a beauty chemist, a product developer for natural skincare brands, a celebrity esthetician, and the co-founder of a natural skincare e-commerce site.

How “Organic” and “Natural” are Defined in the Beauty Industry

Every expert we spoke to about this topic agreed that the terms “natural” and “organic” are very loosely defined by brands in the skincare market. This is largely because the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) takes a very hands-off approach to the topic. In fact, they explicitly state that the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) requirements for the use of the term organic is “separate from the laws and regulations that FDA enforces for cosmetics,” and that the FDA doesn’t even have a legal definition.

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With no definition, there’s very little—if anything—to enforce.
It’s the Wild West when it comes ‘natural’ beauty products,” says Amy Regan, founder and CEO of the skincare brand Skinfix. “There really are no regulated guidelines of what constitutes a natural product, and the word is definitely overused. Each brand defines what ‘natural’ means to them.”
At best, this creates buyer confusion, and at worst, it can translate to thoughtless manipulation, notes Alicia Freed, co-founder of natural and organic e-commerce site Living Earth Beauty. The website curates 100 percent natural, raw, and vegan products and is notably discerning when introducing a new product to their store—even their packaging materials are green. In that sense, they’re true experts when it comes to shopping for natural products.
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“While some companies may be using the term with integrity, what ‘natural’ usually implies is that they have used at least some natural ingredients, or naturally derived ingredients, in their formulations. However, this does not guarantee that they contain only natural ingredients,” Freed says. “Being green, clean, [and] non-toxic is very trendy these days, and many companies are jumping on the ‘green beauty’ bandwagon in order to cash in. This is what many refer to as ‘greenwashing,’ and it is a very popular tactic that seems to be gaining more and more momentum.”
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She adds that many of the largest players in cosmetics are releasing new products that use phrasing and imaging to convey a clean and pure approach, but in countless cases, these are just reformulations of the same conventional products with a “green” spin.

How to Make Sure You’re Getting the Real Deal

If buying natural or organic skincare is important to you, then you must be especially astute while shopping. Though you might be feeling understandably overwhelmed at this point, don’t fret. There are a handful of ways you can feel confident in your natural skincare purchases.

Look for Labels

One of the easiest things you can do is look for certification seals and stamps. For example, while the FDA doesn’t regulate organic and natural labels, the USDA’s definition has become a standard in cosmetics. If you see “certified organic” by the USDA on a label, that indicates the product meets the government’s regulated organic guidelines.

United States Department of Agriculture (via Wikimedia Commons)

“The term ‘Certified Organic’ describes the way agricultural product is grown and processed,” explains celebrity esthetician Biba de Sousa. “The National Organic Program … , in 2005, produced guidelines for organic products. In essence, growing, handling, and processing of the source ingredient involves no pesticides, no hormones, chemical fertilizers, preservatives, [synthetic coating], steroids, antibiotics.”
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There are three primary categories, says de Sousa, including 100 percent USDA Organic, 95 percent organic, and “made with organic,” which means 70 to 90 percent of the product is made with organic ingredients. This category cannot use the organic seal anywhere but can list organic ingredients in the information panel (marked by an asterisk).
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You can also look for additional certified organic labels, which follow carefully stated standards. Each country has its own label, for example, and the International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements’ Family of Standards is an internationally recognized seal as well. There are also seals by NATRUE, the Natural Products Association, Ecocert, and Demeter. While the standards for each of these companies vary, seeing their labels means the product contains 90 to 100 percent organic and natural ingredients.
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All that said, we highly suggest doing research on any certification label you see to make sure their standards align with your own. There are some certifications with lax standards, and it’s important to note that there have even been cases where brands incorrectly use certifications. Remember—it’s the Wild West out there!

Check the Ingredients

When in doubt, start reading.
“At the end of the day, the most foolproof way to protect yourself and make the most informed decisions is to do your research and always, always read the ingredient [lists],” Freed advises.


She notes that the lists can look like a lot of gibberish at first—especially if you’re new to reading them. To minimize the initial confusion, you should familiarize yourself with the ingredients you shouldn’t be using.
For example, Freed says it’s wise to avoid parabens, glycols and butyls, sulfates, aluminum chlorohydrate (often found in antiperspirant), toluene, nanoparticles, and hydroquinone.

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Chemical SPFs also aren’t ideal if you’re seeking all-natural products. Those include oxybenzone and octinoxate, two ingredients that were recently set to be banned in Hawaii due to their damaging effects on coral reefs. You can replace chemical SPF with physical SPF ingredients, which include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
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Fragrance, perfume, and parfum are also words that should raise your all-natural seeking eyebrows. Even though they sound harmless, these ingredients are often used in the skincare industry as a blanket term that encompasses a host of other ingredients that probably aren’t natural or organic.
“If you still have questions [after reading the label], contact the brand,” advises David Pollock, a beauty chemist for top beauty brands, including Lancome, SkinCeuticals, and Smashbox. “More and more brands are becoming transparent. If the brand won’t communicate with transparency, consider sticking with brands that empower you to make the right decision for you.”

Sift Through the Marketing-Speak

If there’s one point we want to keep reiterating, it’s that you should always be ready to read. Without some research, it’s easy to fall for gimmicks or to think that just because a product is sold at Whole Foods or the farmers market, it’s all natural.

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“When a brand uses words that sound nice in their advertising, branding, and packaging such as ‘nature inspired’ or ‘made with 100 percent [ingredient],’ take a moment to think about what they are actually saying,” Freed says. “Does their choice of words really say anything about the quality, content, or efficacy of their products? Likely, they are using words to evoke feelings of purity, but that’s usually not backed up by the content of their products.”


Another important thing to note is that phrases such as vegan, cruelty-free, sustainable, non-GMO, gluten-free, sulfate-free, and paraben-free don’t necessarily mean that all the ingredients are natural. If the aforementioned labels matter to you, seek such products out, but do be aware that the labels only indicate as much as they state and nothing beyond that.
To draw a comparison, if a cupcake says it’s sugar free, that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily good for you or that it doesn’t contain gluten or fat. It just means that it’s sugar-free.

The Bottom Line On All-Natural Cosmetics

At the end of the day, our best advice is to try not to let yourself get tricked by flashy advertising and to always do your homework. What ultimately matters—even more than where a product is sold or their feel-good promises—are the cold, hard facts, which amount to clean ingredient lists and trustworthy certifications.

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We understand this requires a fair amount of research and therefore a notable investment of your time. However, if buying natural and organic is important to you, then it’s ultimately worth going out of your way to selectively spend your dollars on brands that meet your standards. Won’t it feel good to be able to slather on your new serum with the same pride and enthusiasm as you get when slapping on an “I Voted!” sticker?

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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

Vitamin C Benefits The Skin: Here's How

Every couple of years, there’s a new, innovative ingredient claiming to be the next holy grail of skincare products. In 2018, it’s the year of vitamin C. Just take a walk down the beauty aisle and you’ll notice that every other product seems to contain it.
Your friend might have even name-dropped that pricey serum because her dermatologist told her that using vitamin C benefits her skin. Yep, your go-to vitamin for warding off signs of sickness during cold and flu season is now a key ingredient in serums, moisturizers, and other skincare products—and for a good reason.
Vitamin C is good for your skin (and not just because your face looks brighter when you take it). The vitamin C benefits for your skin are endless, resulting in a brighter, youthful-looking face. “[Just] as we are told to take vitamin C supplements when we are sick in order to strengthen our immune system, it’s wise to use a topical vitamin C serum every day to strengthen your skin and build its immunity against free radicals and the signs of aging,” says licensed esthetician Tiffany Lewis.
To get the full rundown on vitamin C benefits, we asked experts to explain exactly how it works.

What is vitamin C?

Vitamin C, or ascorbic acid, is an antioxidant commonly used for dietary purposes and for helping you avoid the plague of cold and flu season. Taking a vitamin C supplement or regularly eating foods that are rich in it can boost your immune system. But recent research shows vitamin C benefits your skin’s appearance and plays a large role in skin health.
While the full benefits of topically applied vitamin C are still unknown, research published in the journal Nutrients and hosted by Oregon State University suggests that the antioxidant does play a role in collagen stimulation and protection against UV photodamage.
Thanks to aging and environmental factors, the naturally occurring vitamin C levels in your skin begin to decline over time, and using beauty products with vitamin C can help compensate for that loss. “Vitamin C is one of the most potent antioxidants we have for topical use on the skin,” says Joshua Zeichner, MD, who is the director of cosmetic and clinical research in dermatology at New York’s Mount Sinai Hospital. “It’s a cofactor necessary for the production of collagen and in this way helps promote healthy cell activity, collagen production, and maintains a strong skin barrier.”

How Vitamin C Benefits Skin

Vitamin C helps you say bye-bye to free radicals.

It happens to even the most careful of us: We’ve stepped out in the sun longer than we’ve intended to and now we’re burnt. On top of the sunburns we’ve all gotten, our skin is constantly exposed to other types of environmental stressors, like pollution. Research shows that vitamin C benefits your skin when it’s been affected by sun damage and these environmental stressors.
According to the Oregon State University resource, vitamin C reduces and neutralizes the oxidants in the epidermal (outermost) layer of the skin caused by environmental damage. It does so by transporting keratinocyte-rich proteins (a cell of the epidermis) to the skin, protecting it from UV lights and other stressors.
“It helps put out inflammation caused by free radicals, helping to protect the skin from the sun,” says Zeichner. “I look at them like safety nets to protect the skin against any UV light that penetrates despite our best efforts of protection with sunscreen.”

Vitamin C delays signs of wrinkles.

As a result of sun damage and environmental stressors, that exposure and oxidative damage can interfere with your DNA, leading to changes in skin structure including wrinkles and other signs of aging. Research has shown that using topical formulas rich in vitamin C benefits your skin by reversing those aging effects, says Yoon-Soo C. Bae, MD, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at New York University. When there’s DNA damage you develop skin cancer and wrinkles,” she says. “Vitamin C gets rid of all that to prevent DNA damage.”

Vitamin C plumps up your face.

As you get older, your skin produces less collagen, meaning the connective tissues in your dermis (the inner layer of skin) are weaker and your face begins losing its natural elasticity. Bae says that vitamin C benefits the production of collagen by creating more of it.
According to a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, it does so by increasing collagen synthesis—the process in which your skin makes more collagen and stabilizes it. When that happens, your skin gets firmer, your cheeks look fuller, and your face can look as plump as it did in your younger years. We’ll call that a win!

Vitamin C gives you brighter skin and reduces dark spots.

Got a few dark spots? No worries! If you ever look at a brightening face mask, you’ll often find vitamin C is a key ingredient. That’s because it helps get rid of dark spots and brightens your skin. According to Bae, your skin changes pigment as a result of tyrosine, an enzyme that supports melanin production.
As mentioned in Nutrients, melanin production is the reason that we tan from the sun or develop moles, freckles, or other dark spots. Vitamin C blocks that tyrosine from forming, which eventually will even out and brighten your skin tone and nix dark spots.

Vitamin C helps with inflammation.

While there is still research to be done, Oregon State University’s vitamin C resource suggests that it benefits those experiencing inflammation, whether it’s the result of sun damage or a blemish. “Vitamin C has anti-inflammatory properties as it decreases the activation of the transcription factor nuclear factor kappa beta, [a protein complex] responsible for many pro-inflammatory cytokines [proteins],” says Bae.

Which type of vitamin C benefits skin?

Not all vitamin C is created equal. Because of the differences in pH balances, some formulas of vitamin C benefit your skin more than others.
Lewis recommends using vitamin C that’s categorized as a L-ascorbic acid because it’s the purest and most stable and works for all skin types. However, if your skin is more sensitive, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a better option because it’s fatty-acid derived. Other common names you’ll find include ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
“Any of these forms of vitamin C are water-soluble nutrients with vast antioxidant properties that also synthesize collagen, aid in vascular circulation, protect and repair damaged epidermal cells, and guard against photoaging and hyperpigmentation,” says Lewis.

Will vitamin C supplements benefit your skin?

When we sense a cold coming on, it’s common to want to chug a glass of orange juice or pop an Emergen-C (even though recent research shows that vitamin C actually has little benefit when it comes to preventing a cold or reducing symptoms!). Still, it’s common practice, and it makes sense that people would want to use vitamin C on the skin as well. But for the skin, vitamin C works differently.
“The benefit to the skin from topically applied vitamin C is far superior to the benefit when taken by mouth,” says Zeichner. “It takes high concentrations of vitamin C delivered directly to the skin to achieve the skin-brightening and collagen-stimulating benefits.”
However, some studies suggest that vitamin C supplements can indirectly affect your skin: Taking it orally has been shown to enhance the effectiveness of SPF, which is, of course, great for skin!
Other studies suggest that a diet rich in high doses of vitamin C benefits your skin’s appearance greatly and reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles. Still, topical products are the way to go, according to the experts.

The Best Skincare Products With Vitamin C Benefits

“Due to the instability and low skin penetration of vitamin C, [products with vitamin C] must be formulated properly to be effective,” says Bae.
In addition to finding a good formula, she also suggests finding a product that comes in a dark container to prevent the vitamin C from oxidizing: “Oxygen exposure causes oxidation of the product, so packaging and formulation matter.”
And as for what kind of vitamin C product to buy, you might get better results by using a serum. “The benefits of using a topical vitamin C serum are exceptional, also because it’s readily absorbed into the skin, particularly in a lower PH level,” says Lewis. However, vitamin C is found in a plethora of beauty products from moisturizers to face masks and more. Be warned though: Stable vitamin C that won’t oxidize quickly doesn’t come cheap.
Below are a few recommendations to get you started on that vitamin C kick.
SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Serum ($146)
If you want your skin to really reap the vitamin C benefits, get in the habit of using a vitamin C–packed serum daily. Formulated with ferulic acid, vitamin C, and vitamin E, it brightens your skin, improves signs of wrinkles, and provides protection from environmental stressors for at least 72 hours.
Environ Evenescence CBoost Cream ($83)
This clarifying cream is rich in vitamin C and light enough to use both morning and night. It has a unique form of vitamin C (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) to promote collagen production, minimize pigmentation, and even hydrate your skin.
Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum ($80)
This is an ideal serum for those new to using vitamin C, thanks to its low 3.3 to 3.5 pH level. This serum is made with clean ingredients, including pumpkin ferment, pomegranate extracts, and their special antioxidant complex of L-ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, and vitamin E to brighten and protect your skin.
Tatcha Violet-C Radiance Mask ($68)
You can also get your vitamin C benefits in face-mask form. This mask offers two types of vitamin C: a water-soluble vitamin C that works ASAP to get your glow on and an oil-soluble vitamin C that works into the deeper layer of your skin. As an added bonus, this mask is formulated with alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) derived from seven fruits to remove the buildup of dead skin. Use it two or three times a week and you’ll notice your skin will be brighter and softer.
CLINIQUE Fresh Pressed 7-Day System with Pure Vitamin C ($30)
All it takes is seven days to get all the vitamin C benefits you could ever want from this two-step system. It contains pure vitamin C in powder form that’s activated when mixed with water. Apply it to your face, and by day two, you’ll notice brighter results.
The Ordinary’s Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate 10% ($10)
For those with sensitive skin who want all of vitamin C’s benefits but can’t handle too strong of a formula, this serum is for you. This serum’s water-soluble formula makes it less potent than other vitamin C products, meaning it’s gentler on the skin.

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Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

The ABCs Of SPF: Everything You Need To Know About Sunscreen

You’ve probably heard a million times that wearing sunscreen is critical for your skin’s health—and ideally, you sport SPF on the daily, even when it’s not sunny out. (The sun can still damage your skin when it’s cloudy, FYI.)
Even if that’s not quite the case, with summer quickly approaching, we get that you might be thinking a whole lot more about sunscreen now than you did in the dead of winter. But how much do you actually know about what SPF is and how it works?
Understanding SPF will go a long way in using it properly to protect your skin from the sun’s damaging UV rays.

What does SPF actually mean?

SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor, and it’s a measure of how long a sunscreen will protect you from UVB rays, says Fayne Frey, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in West Nyack, New York. The number next to SPF (e.g. 15 or 30) tells you how much time it’d take for your skin to turn red while wearing SPF compared to how long it’d take your skin to turn red without wearing SPF.
For example, if it would take 20 minutes for your skin to burn without sunscreen, using an SPF 15 sunscreen would prevent burning for 15 times longer, which is about 5 hours, according to the Skin Cancer Foundation.
That doesn’t mean SPF 100 offers a ton more protection than SPF 15 or 30 though. The Skin Cancer Foundation also notes that SPF 15 blocks about 93 percent of UVB rays, SPF 30 blocks about 97 percent of UVB rays, and SPF 50 blocks about 98 percent of UVB rays.
And even if you’re using a high SPF, it’s not going to do much for you unless you remember to reapply it regularly. Keep reading to find expert tips on applying sunscreen efficiently.

Is SPF all you have to look for on a sunscreen label?

Nope. To shield your skin against both UVA and UVB rays, you have to look for the phrase “broad-spectrum” on sunscreen labels, says Tsippora Shainhouse, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Los Angeles and clinical instructor at the University of Southern California.
The sun emits three types of rays: UVA, UVB, and UVC. “UVA rays have the longest wavelengths, UVB rays have shorter wavelengths, and UVC rays are even shorter,” says Frey. “UVC rays don’t reach Earth’s surface, so you don’t have to worry about them.”
Because of their longer wavelengths, UVA rays have the ability to penetrate deeper into your skin than UVB rays, and they are the ones that can contribute to the formation of wrinkles and hyperpigmentation that show up years later, says Frey. “UVA rays were never really thought to cause burns and cancer, but recently we’ve learned that that’s not the case,” says Frey. “Research shows that UVA rays do cause skin cancer.”
UVB rays, which damage the top layer of your skin, are responsible for sunburns as well as skin cancer. (An easy way to remember what’s what? Think A for accelerated aging and B for burns, says beauty industry chemist David Pollock.)
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In 2011, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) updated its guidelines for how sunscreens are sold in the U.S. Manufacturers now have to pass a specific test if they want to label a sunscreen broad-spectrum in an effort to ensure that what you buy will actually protect you from UVA and UVB rays.
Additionally, sunscreen labels can no longer say waterproof on them, says Shainhouse. “Instead, the label will read ‘water-resistant,’ which means that it will last up to 80 minutes in water or with profuse sweating,” says Shainhouse.
And, fun fact: Brands can no longer call their products sunblock, either. “There is no such word as sunblock anymore because you cannot completely block the UV rays with a topical cream,” says Shainhouse. Hence the term sunscreen.

What happens when you skip SPF?

We get it: Sometimes life happens, and you just don’t have the time to apply sunscreen. But if you’re thinking this is an unnecessary step in your daily skincare routine, you might want to change your tune.
Beyond shielding yourself from sunburns, broad-spectrum sunscreen helps protect you from premature aging caused by UVA rays. “Sunscreen should be applied on your face and hands every day,” says Frey. “You get more sun just going about your day—walking to your car and mailbox—than you do on those few days you spend on the beach. Sun damage accumulates.” Even sitting by a window or being stuck in traffic could leave you vulnerable. “UVA rays penetrate through glass,” says Frey, “so even when you’re driving, you get exposure.”
If you were to compare the face, hands, and neck of a middle-aged person to their butt, well, the commonly exposed areas would likely look a whole lot older if sun protection wasn’t a priority, says Frey. Sure, you don’t need to wear SPF under your clothes in January, but “it’s truly necessary for people to apply sunscreen [to exposed areas] every day of the year,” says Frey.
According to a 2014 study published in the journal Molecules, it’s possible that UV exposure in general accounts for as much as 80 percent of visible aging signs, like lines, dryness, and hyperpigmentation—and that this photoaging is associated with an increased risk for skin cancer.
Per the American Cancer Society, skin cancer is the most common type of cancer. Basal and squamous cell carcinomas (the two most-diagnosed forms of skin cancer) are typically found on areas that are exposed to the sun, like your head, neck, and arms. Basal and squamous cell carcinoma are easily treatable if caught early, but melanoma, which is less common, is harder to treat because it grows and spreads quickly.
Research has found that using sunscreen with an SPF 15 or higher curbs your risk of squamous cell carcinoma by 40 percent and your risk of melanoma by 50 percent, says Shainhouse.

What’s the best SPF formula?

SPF isn’t one size fits all, and now that you know why it’s crucial to apply SPF, it’s time to find the formula that best suits you.
There are actually two types of sunscreen: chemical and physical. Chemical ingredients like avobenzone absorb UV rays and keep them from penetrating your skin, says Frey. Physical (or mineral) sunscreen contains ingredients like titanium dioxide or zinc oxide that sit on top of your skin and deflect UV rays, says Shainhouse.
There are pros and cons to both, though. Chemical sunscreens typically have more cosmetically elegant formulas (meaning they don’t leave a white film and won’t mess with your makeup, says Frey). Shainhouse adds that chemical sunscreens are also more likely to have accurate SPF levels. Still, some ingredients in chemical sunscreens, like oxybenzone, can be highly irritating, especially if you’re prone to sensitivity, says Pollock.
Overall, Pollock prefers a physical sunscreen that’s formulated with a combo of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection with the least amount of irritation.
Pollock notes that if you’re looking for a more natural, potentially safer SPF option, then you’re going to want to use a physical sunscreen. It may leave a white cast on your skin, says Frey, but with newer formulations, this is becoming less of a problem. It’s important to note that physical sunscreen rubs off more easily, so it may need to be reapplied more frequently, says Shainhouse.
Because of the possibility for irritation, physical sunscreen is also the best option for babies, says Frey. However, she points out that “baby sunscreen” is almost completely a marketing ploy. Almost all baby and kid sunscreens have physical formulas, and they often have the same exact formulas as other sunscreens, just with a different label on the front. The only thing that might be different about baby sunscreen is that it’d probably be fragrance-free, says Pollock, since fragrance is an irritant.
“At the end of the day, the FDA only looks at actives [in sunscreen],” says Pollock. “The government doesn’t care if it’s for a baby or a 90-year-old. They only care about whether it blocks the sun.”
Finally, keep the environment in mind. A 2008 study published in the journal Environmental Health Perspectives found that chemical sunscreens can cause coral reef damage. The researchers found that at least 25 percent of sunscreen is washed off while swimming within 20 minutes. The National Park Service advises using physical sunscreen, since titanium dioxide and zinc oxide haven’t been found to damage reefs.

What’s the best form of sunscreen?

Once you choose between chemical and physical SPF, you then have to decide which form of sunscreen to wear. You have a lot of options, from lotions to sprays to sticks.
Lotions give you better control because you can see exactly how much you’re applying, says Pollock, while sprays are super convenient and a great pick for the laziest among us, he says. Personally, Pollock is a fan of stick sunscreen for the forehead and around the eyes. That’s because if you’re using a chemical SPF lotion on your face, and you sweat, it could run into your eyes and cause burning, whereas a stick won’t run.  
Experts say they’re all relatively effective—as long as you apply and reapply—so it’s more about personal preference.
The only caveat is when it comes to makeup with SPF. “It’s better than nothing, but the truth is most people don’t put makeup on thick enough,” says Frey. “It’s best to put sunscreen on first.”

What’s the best way to apply sunscreen?

“The most important thing isn’t what number you use, it’s how you use it,” says Frey. “Even if you use SPF 100, you’re not going to get the SPF 100 protection unless you do it correctly.”
Chemical SPF takes about 15 minutes to absorb, so you have to apply it before you go outside according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Experts recommend using at least one ounce (which is about the size of a shot glass) to cover exposed areas.
One ounce is usually sufficient to cover exposed skin in an adult from head to toe,” says Shainhouse. “I usually recommend a nickel-sized dollop for face and ears or a quarter-sized if you’re including your entire neckfront, sides, and back.” This is all dependent on body size, says Frey—someone larger would need to apply more. (Commonly overlooked areas include the tops of the feet, scalp, ears, and around bathing suit edges, says Frey, so don’t forget about protecting those places, too!)
If you’re using an SPF lotion, gel, or oil, rub it in thoroughly for maximum benefits. If you’re using a  spray SPF sunscreen, you also have to rub that in, but you should apply a second layer to make sure you’re not missing any spots, says Shainhouse. “Spray sunscreens are only effective if applied properly, which means holding the bottle two to three inches from the skin and spraying a stream onto the skin,” she says. Just don’t spray SPF directly onto your face, since it can get into your lungs and irritate them, says Frey. If you are planning to use spray sunscreen on your face, spray it into your hands first and pat it onto your face.
As far as reapplication goes, experts recommend doing so approximately every two hours. Because the UVA protection begins to break down after two hours, sunscreen should be reapplied every two to three hours if you are out in the sun,” says Shainhouse. “They should be reapplied more frequently if you sweat profusely or go swimming.”
There are other sun protection measures you should take besides applying sunscreen, the biggest being avoiding midday sun exposure, says Frey, since the sun is at its peak between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Other than that, throw on a hat to shield your scalp and sunglasses to protect your eyes. UPF clothing is an effective way to protect your skin, too. “Some of the fabrics are fantastic,” says Frey. When it comes to clothing in general, Frey says that darker tops are better because the sun can get through white t-shirts.

How do you pick the best SPF?

As with any other skincare product, keep your skin type and lifestyle in mind when choosing an SPF sunscreen.
SPF for acne-prone skin: Look for a non-comedogenic, oil-free formula, like Neutrogena Clear Face Sunscreen Lotion ($12), which is formulated with chemical SPF and won’t clog pores or cause breakouts.
SPF for oily skin: EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46 ($33) is formulated with lactic acid, which unclogs pores and curbs shine, making it a perfect chemical SPF pick for oily skin.
SPF for dry skin: Hydrate dry skin with a moisturizer with SPF like Paula’s Choice Resist Skin Restoring Moisturizer with SPF 50 ($33), which contains nourishing shea butter and has a chemical SPF formulation.
SPF for sensitive skin: Choose a physical sunscreen, like Avene Mineral Ultra-Light Hydrating Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50+ ($28), which features the brand’s soothing spring water.
SPF with anti-aging benefits: Packed with antioxidants, Drunk Elephant Umbra Sheer Physical Daily Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30 ($34) is a mineral SPF sunscreen that protects against free radical damage that can cause wrinkles.  
SPF for makeup prep: Avoid your foundation slicking by applying Supergoop Unseen Sunscreen Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 40 ($32) before makeup. It has an oil-controlling formula that leaves skin with a velvety finish.
SPF for lips and ears: Reach for an easy-to-apply stick SPF sunscreen, like Bare Republic Mineral Sport Sunscreen Stick SPF 50 ($10), to cover these often-forgotten areas.
SPF for body: La Roche Posay Anthelios Face & Body Melt-In Sunscreen Milk SPF 60 ($36) is a classic for a reason. It has a non-greasy, oil-free formula that absorbs easily into skin without clogging pores.
SPF for beach trips: Spray your arms and legs with reef-safe All Good Sport Sunscreen Spray SPF 30 ($17), and relax while staring out into the ocean.
SPF for on-the-go touch-ups: When you’re in need of a quick SPF touch-up, that’s the time to reach for a powder sunscreen, like Colorescience Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50 ($65), which provides mineral protection and won’t mess with makeup.
Regardless of which sunscreen you use, know that SPF has about a three-year shelf life, says Frey. That being said, because you should wear sunscreen on exposed areas every day, your bottle or tube of SPF shouldn’t come close to lasting for three years.

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

We’re Breaking Down The Korean Skincare Routine So You Can Try It Without Confusion

Unless you’re a complete beauty newb, chances are you’ve at least heard of the epicness that is the Korean skincare routine. In case you need a refresher, the typical Korean skincare routine consists of a whopping 10 steps, with each serving a unique purpose. While Korean skincare may seem daunting at first, once you find the best Korean skincare products for your skin type and concerns, you’ll get your own routine on lock.
Here, learn all about why you should commit to a Korean skincare routine and get product recs tailored to you, straight from top experts in the Korean skincare industry.

Beauty 101: What is a Korean skincare routine, and why is it so popular?

A typical Korean skincare routine includes everything from double cleansing to treating skin concerns with products like essences and ampoules to intensely moisturizing.
Korean skincare involves a lot of steps with a major focus on hydration, says Michelle Wong, PhD, who writes about the science behind beauty products on her website Lab Muffin.
Craig Kraffert, MD, board-certified dermatologist and president of Amarte, a skincare brand that launched in Korea in the ’90s, says the multistep Korean skincare routine was born out of an obsession with the Korean concept that skincare is a privileged activity of “indulgence, enjoyment, and self-respect.”
Alicia Yoon, founder of K-beauty brand Peach & Lily, says the overall goal of Korean skincare is to create a healthy glow, and the routine resonates with people because it’s a unique take on skincare. “There’s a little bit more of a long-term approach to achieving a healthy outcome for skin,” says Yoon. “It’s not about expecting overnight results from something like a very intensive peel.”
Korean skincare products also play a role in the popularity of the multistep routine. Kraffert, who founded Dermstore, has had the opportunity to try skincare products from all over the world and says that Korean skincare products have been more aesthetically pleasing and pleasant to use than ones made in America or Europe.
“The state-of-the-art Korean skincare technologies—and there are several—really do lead the world,” says Kraffert. “The Korean government has actively participated in nurturing the skincare product manufacturing industry through partnerships with academia to advance R&D [research and development] efforts.”
Besides their advanced formulas, the packaging of many Korean skincare products is totally adorable. Many of them come housed in the cutest containers, and that adds to the appeal, says Yoon.
The proliferation of Korean movies and music to the West in the last few years is also piquing people’s interest in Korean skincare, says Kraffert. “Starting in the second half of the ’90s, the Korean wave swept across Asia, and, more recently, is sweeping across both America and Europe,” he says. “This began with drama productions. Korean actresses and their legendary beauty are revered across Asia. The Korean penchant for excellence in plastic surgery is also well known.”
Couple that with the high-tech product formulations and a historical obsession with skincare, and it makes sense that Korean skincare has taken off around the globe.

East vs. West: What are the major differences between Western and Korean skincare routines?

“Western beauty routines usually contain [fewer] steps, harsher active ingredients, and less of a focus on moisturization,” says Wong. While the Western world is slowly becoming more and more influenced by Korean skincare routines, she says, we tend to combine steps with multi-use products, whereas a Korean skincare routine separates everything out.
“In a Korean skincare routine, you’ll have a lot more steps,” Wong explains. “For example, cleansing will involve two steps—this is known as double-cleansing—and there will be multiple steps that deliver active ingredients to your skin, like essences and serums.”
Wong adds that Asian skin is generally more prone to dehydration, which is why moisturization plays such a huge role. Asian skin is also more prone to hyperpigmentation, says Wong, so pigmentation-lightening ingredients like niacinamide and kojic acid—both rarely seen in American and European beauty products—are in a lot of Korean skincare products.
Sarah Chung, CEO of Landing International, an online marketplace that connects global brands and retailers, says that Korean skincare tends to be a lot stronger when it comes to the nutrient stage of the routine. While we sometimes include serums (or a similar product like an essence or ampoule) in our skincare routines here in the U.S., in Korea this is considered a vital step that would never be skipped, says Chung.
Korean skincare also places a big emphasis on preventive measures, says Yoon, which is different from in the U.S., where we tend to wait until our skin is damaged and then try to reverse it. That’s why you’ll always find sunscreen in a Korean skincare routine.

How to Put Together a Korean Skincare Routine

So now you know why Korean skincare is trending and what the benefits of a Korean skincare routine are, but what about actually following the 10-step process? We’re making it easy with our step-by-step guide.

Step 1: Use an oil cleanser.

Oil cleansers are great because they gently remove impurities (like dirt and makeup) from your skin without having to resort to tugging or pulling, says Yoon. She says people with any skin type—even oily skin—can use an oil cleanser.
Yoon’s favorite oil cleanser is Aromatica Natural Coconut Cleansing Oil ($45), which dissolves impurities without leaving any residue and can be used by all skin types. Chung is a fan of oil cleansers that come in a balm form, like SkinRx Lab MadeCera Cleansing Balm ($26), because they’re travel-friendly. “The solid format means you can put them in your bag and go anywhere,” she says.

Step 2: Cleanse again.

“In a way that is analogous to shampooing—wash, rinse, repeat—double cleansing of the skin can provide improved removal of oil, keratin, and assorted microscopic skin debris,” says Kraffert. He says that while you can double cleanse no matter your skin type, it might be more beneficial for those who are on the oilier side.
If you’re going to double cleanse, Kraffert suggests choosing a gentle yet deep-cleansing foam cleanser, like Amarte Daily Wonder Cleansing Foam ($40), for this step. It’s formulated with hyaluronic acid, which is one of the most hydrating ingredients out there. “High-quality facial cleansers typically do not lead to dry skin, even with double cleansing,” he says.
Yoon is a fan of Shangpree S-Energy Facial Mousse Cleanser ($35), particularly for sensitive skin. “It’s made by the best spa in Korea,” she says, referring to Seoul’s Shangpree Spa. “It’s a water-based cleanser that doesn’t have any sulfates. It’s really beautiful and doesn’t disrupt the skin at all.

Step 3: Exfoliate (once or twice a week).

You don’t have to exfoliate every day. Once or twice a week tops should do, says Yoon. Exfoliating rids the surface of your skin of dulling, pore-clogging impurities, but over-exfoliating could irritate your skin and lead to even more issues, she warns.
There are two types of exfoliators to choose from: physical ones (like scrubs and microfiber cloths), which manually buff off dead skin cells, and chemical ones (like glycolic and lactic acids), which loosen dead skin cells so they come off more easily, says Wong.
Chemical exfoliators can also be formulated with plant enzymes, such as pumpkin, pineapple, or papaya extracts, says Wong. Be The Skin Non-Stimulus Face Polisher ($29), which Yoon loves, relies on plant extracts for exfoliation and is suitable for all skin types. Kraffert recommends Amarte Daily ExfoliPowder ($37), which utilizes ultra-fine corn starch for very gentle manual exfoliation (it can even be swapped in for the second half of your daily double cleanse, he says).
Chung cites Wish Formula C200 Bubble Peeling Pad for Face ($26) as an innovative chemical exfoliant. It comes with a pad that you soak in an exfoliating serum—which contains AHAs, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid—and wipe over your face.

Step 4: Tone.

“Korean toners are very hydrating,” says Yoon. “They’re not astringent.” They’re awesome at balancing your skin’s pH and kickstarting the hydration portion of your routine, she says.

As for when to apply it, Yoon says, “You don’t want your skin to be totally dry when you apply toner. You should apply it within five seconds of washing your face.”

Yoon recommends Be the Skin, a beauty line that offers toners for all different skin types, like the Botanical Pore Toner ($25) for oily and acne-prone skin, Purifying White Waterful Toner ($29) for dull skin, Botanical Nutrition Power Toner ($29) for dry skin, and Botanical Nutrition Toner ($29) for normal skin.

Landing International’s best-known brand in the U.S. is COSRX, and they also offer a variety of toners for different concerns, says Chung. One of the newest and most popular toners from the brand is the Poreless Power Liquid ($22), which cleans and tightens pores without stripping skin. She also likes the COSRX One Step Original Clear Pads ($20), pre-soaked toning pads that fight acne without drying out skin.

Step 5: Apply essence.

Essences are likely the products you’re most unfamiliar with in the Korean skincare routine. They were developed in Korea, and while they’re similar in appearance and texture to toners, they don’t serve the same purpose. Essences are meant to be hydrating, not cleansing, says Yoon.

Wong says that they often contain ingredients like glycerin and hyaluronic acid, while Kraffert compares essences to serums and says they may even be preferred over serums if you have dry skin.

Yoon recommends Eco Your Skin’s essences for their unique formula that can be layered on. “You can apply one layer or 20 layers, and your skin keeps drinking it up,” she says. The brand offers a Moisturizing Layering Essence, Lifting Layering Essence, Soothing Layering Essence, Spot Care Layering Essence, Oily Layering Essence, and Anti-Wrinkle Layering Essence (all $25).

Step 6: Layer on a serum or ampoule.

“In Korean skincare, serums usually target wrinkles, dullness, and pigmentation,” says Wong.

Yoon says you can use a serum (a lightweight, watery skincare product that penetrates deeply into your skin to deliver nutrients) or an ampoule (a souped-up version of a serum with a slightly more potent formula).

Yoon loves Shangpree S-energy Long Lasting Concentrated Serum ($120). “It’s good for all skin types,” she says. “It’s a lightweight clear gel that absorbs into skin and is proven to help with fine lines and wrinkles.”

Kraffert says the Amarte Aqua Veil Pure Hydration Serum ($57) has a water-rich formula that provides tons of hydration so that skin can withstand harsh environments. Chung says Skin&Lab Red Serum ($35) helps improve the texture of skin and is very high in antioxidants. “Anyone I recommend that to falls in love with it,” she says.

If you want to try an ampoule, Wish Formula offers a few, says Chung. The I’m Pro Ampoule Pad – C ($32) nourishes skin with plant extracts, while the I’m Pro Ampoule Pad – M brightens dull skin with vitamin C ($32).

Step 7: Pop on a sheet mask (a few times a week).

Like essences and ampoules, sheet masks are quintessential parts of a Korean skincare routine. These fabric face masks are soaked in concentrated serums and are generally used two or three times a week.
“Sheet masks hydrate your skin and can help the underlying products sink into the skin,” says Wong. Don’t wash your face after using a sheet mask, Chung notes. Since sheet masks are packed with serum, pat the serum into your skin after taking the mask off.
Yoon says Peach & Lily sheet masks are formulated without alcohol, fragrances, or harsh ingredients, all of which could irritate skin. “They’re filled with lots of skin-enhancing ingredients and are gentle enough to use even daily,” she says. The Good Skin Day Drench + Nourish Sheet Mask hydrates and brightens, the Chubby Cheeks Lift + Plump Sheet Mask perks up sagging skin, and the Reset Button Soothe + Restore Sheet Mask calms irritated skin (all $6).

Step 8: Dab on an eye cream.

The delicate skin around your eyes deserves attention, too! “It’s super important to keep the skin around your eyes moisturized,” says Kraffert. Because it’s so fragile, this skin is prone to dryness and showing signs of aging like dark circles and crow’s feet. Kraffert recommends using eye cream twice daily and patting it into your skin with gentle pressure.
For fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, Kraffert says the gold star ingredient is retinol, which you can find in Amarte Eyeconic Eye Cream ($80). “Retinol is one of the most effective cosmetic anti-aging ingredients and is proven, via rigorous studies, to improve conditions associated with chronological aging, such as wrinkles and fine lines,” he says.
Yoon likes Eco Your Skin Volufiline15 Eye Essence ($70). “It sinks really deep into skin,” she says. “It’s formulated with peptides and niacinamide and is firming and brightening. It fills in fine lines for flawless and creaseless makeup application.”

Step 9: Moisturize.

The ultimate goal of Korean skincare is a glowing complexion, which means moisturizer is a non-negotiable morning and night. For oily skin, choose an oil-free formula for daytime, and for dry skin, choose something heavier (moisturizers in jars are often richer), says Wong. Avoid heavy fragrances if you have sensitive skin.
Yoon says the Peach & Lily Peach Slices Aqua Glow ($12) combines serum and moisturizer and works on all skin types to brighten and hydrate. “You can use one layer for oily skin or five layers for dry skin,” she says. “It doesn’t pill, it’s non-comedogenic, and it primes your face for makeup.” Chung likes Skin & Lab Red Cream ($35), which has an antioxidant-packed gel–cream formula to soften lines and plump up skin.
“Sleeping masks or sleeping packs are a Korean product that I’ve found really useful for preventing dehydration, especially in dry winter weather,” says Wong. “You layer them over the rest of your skincare routine to help seal in moisture.” Try Laneige Water Sleeping Mask ($25), which has a gel formula that hydrates while you sleep.

Step 10: Protect your skin from the sun (in the morning).

“Sunscreen still remains the most important weapon in preventing premature skin aging and skin cancer, especially because these problems occur in frequently exposed areas including the face, neck, upper chest, arms, and hands,” says Kraffert.
Pick one that’s broad-spectrum (that means it protects against UVA and UVB rays) and SPF 30 or higher, says Kraffert. “Apply SPF over your moisturizer and under your makeup,” he says. He recommends Amarte Ultra Veil Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid SPF 50 ($56), which is broad-spectrum and water resistant, contains brightening antioxidants, and has a semi-matte finish that won’t leave a greasy or chalky residue.
The bottom line: Sure, following a Korean skincare routine might take you a few extra minutes, but you’ll get the hang of it after some practice, we promise! Plus, when you see that radiant glow shining back at you from the mirror, we have a feeling you’ll think the added time has been worth it.

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

7 Sheet Mask Questions Answered By K-Beauty Experts

Sheet masks are starting to dominate the skin care market, and that’s a good thing. We could all use a little rejuvenation in our lives, right? Sheet masks—Korean sheet masks in particular—have taken Western markets by storm in recent years; according to one estimate, in 2015, the global sheet mask market was valued at $160 million; by the end of 2024, it’s expected to reach $336 million.
While we’re psyched to see this Korean beauty secret take hold in the States, we’ve seen conflicting tips for using sheet masks. Do you leave them on for hours at a time? Does brand really matter? Could we get the same moisturizing effect by simply covering our faces with lotion and standing under a waterfall?
We had a lot of questions, so we reached out to the experts. Whether you’re looking into sheet masks for the first time, or you’re a well-moisturized veteran of the sheet mask game, here’s what you need to know.

What is the difference between a sheet mask and a regular mask?

If you’ve used cream or clay facial masks, you might wonder what makes Korean sheet masks so remarkable.

“Sheet masks are face-shaped sheet fabrics soaked in serums or essences that have many benefits to the skin,” says Yves Saint Laurent Beauté ambassador Elisa Lee (@sokobeauty on Instagram). “Depending on the active ingredient, it can help with sebum production and refining the skin texture.”
“The sheet can be made of a variety of materials [such as] paper, fiber, or gel. They’re usually packed individually, so you can only use them once,” Lee explains. “They’re very different from regular wash-off clay or cream masks. With sheet masks, you are hydrating your skin by locking the moisture in during the 10 to 20 minutes when you have the mask on. You often don’t need to wash off after applying a sheet mask, while you normally would with a regular mask.”

Basically, Korean sheet masks are designed to hydrate your skin, while wash-off facial masks are intended to provide a cleansing effect.
“Sheet masks and regular masks do, in fact, complement each other,” says Ryan Sim, better known as Singapore-based beauty blogger Ryanraroar. “There is a reason why you can only experience a truly deep cleansing effect from a clay mask that comes in a jar. On days when you want an exfoliative deep cleanse, pick a clay, mud, or charcoal mask over a sheet mask. A sheet mask would not be able to offer that kind of deep cleansing effect.”

Lee agrees with that assessment.
“If you would like to exfoliate dead skin cells, remove white or blackheads, and deeply cleanse the skin, then I would recommend to go for a clay or mud mask,” she says. “Sheet masks mainly focus on hydration and nourishment. Depending on the active ingredient, [a sheet mask] can remove excess sebum as well, but it won’t deeply cleanse the skin.”

What’s in a sheet mask, exactly? What ingredients should I avoid?

There’s no standard ingredient list for sheet masks, so consumers have to do a bit of homework. Read the ingredient lists of any two, and you’ll probably find quite a few differences. Sheet mask benefits are largely driven by their active humectants (a substance that keeps skin moist), which vary among products.
“I love sheet masks with hyaluronic acid to moisturize the skin,” Lee says. “I also like niacinamide to brighten the skin. I usually [avoid] arbutin, which is a whitening ingredient, because I personally don’t prefer it. I also avoid alcohol, which may dry out the skin. If one of the two ingredients are listed in the first row of the ingredient list, I stay away from it.”
“I personally don’t like heavily scented sheet masks,” she adds. “I’ve got a sensitive nose, so I stay away from those.”
“With almost any sheet masks, when you look at the ingredients, the top three are usually water and humectants,” says Jude Chao, director of marketing at Beautytap and blogger at Fifty Shades of Snail. “That makes up the vast majority of the volume of the product. When people go looking for sheet masks, usually I just tell them to look at the ingredients.”

“Make sure that it doesn’t have anything that you’re sensitive to,” Chao suggests. “Find things enjoyable to you so that you’ll like using it and you’ll get into the habit of using it. Barring any real sensitivities or allergies, I personally think people can just use what they want to use.”

“There are some ingredients that work exceptionally well for you personally, but not as well for others,” Sim says. “Personally, I adore ingredients like vitamin C, centella asiatica, madecassoside, arbutin, and niacinamide. As for what ingredients to stay away from, I would advise people to read up about [individual ingredients] online to form their opinions, but one ingredient, in particular, is methylisothiazolinone (MIT).”

Widely used in cosmetics, methylisothiazolinone is a preservative and a potential allergen. According to the Environmental Working Group’s cosmetics database, some studies indicate that the substance could be neurotoxic, and the European Union has banned the use of methylisothiazolinone in leave-on cosmetics.

How often should you use sheet masks?

Well-hydrated skin is certainly a good thing, but we did wonder whether or not overuse could cause issues. According to our experts, you can use sheet masks as often as you’d like, provided that you’re not experiencing any negative reactions.

“You can sheet mask every single day,” says Lee, “but if you don’t have the time for it—which I can imagine—I recommend using them two or three times per week to keep your skin moisturized.”
Sim also recommends starting with two to three sheet masks per week.
We’ve all heard the saying, ‘Everyone’s skin is different,’ and that’s true,” he says. “We all have varying skin types and skin needs, therefore, we should all listen to our skin and address it accordingly. …[Frequency] greatly depends on how the skin feels. There are some people, myself included, who do a sheet mask daily without an issue. I’d like to think that there is no hard-and-fast rule here. Ultimately, you just have to be aware of your skin type/condition and be selective about what you put on your skin.”
If you feel like you aren’t getting results from your current sheet mask regimen, and you haven’t noticed any tender or irritated skin, feel free to increase the frequency of your sessions.
“The basic function of the sheet mask is to hydrate,” says Chao. “It’s not a treatment product, so it really depends on how much you like using them. I think that well-hydrated skin tends to be more resilient in general. It tends to heal faster, and that’s something that sheet masks help a lot with. You won’t get those kinds of effects from any other type of product.”
“So it’s all personal taste,” Chao continues, “but I definitely find my skin looks its best when I’m using them almost every day.”

What should I know about sheet masks if I have sensitive skin?

“I think for some people, ingredients like alcohol or fragrance may be problematic,” Chao says. “That’s especially because of the function of the sheet mask. It’s this cylindrical sheet that holds the product on your face, keeping it moist for quite a long time. [Sheet masks] use a bunch of penetration enhancers to help more of the volume of product get into your skin. Ingredients like alcohol and fragrance that may not pose as much of a problem in regular-use skincare may be more irritating for some people when their skin is exposed to them for such a long period of time.”

With that said, Chao says that fragrance and alcohol aren’t absolute no-nos.
“I’ve used masks that have them and don’t personally have problems,” she says. “I think you kind of play it by ear. Some masks, you open them up and they just smell like alcohol, or they just smell strongly fragrant. I won’t try those, but a little bit here and there won’t be an issue for most normal skin.”

If your skin is especially sensitive, you’ve still got options, but you’ll have to do more research before making a purchase.
“For dry or dehydrated skin, you can look for sheet masks with one of these main ingredients: hyaluronic acid, manuka honey, aloe vera, or snail [secretion],” Lee says. “Some Korean brands also have cream sheet masks, and those are perfect for dehydrated or dry skin.”
“For acne-prone or sensitive skin, you can look for centella asiatica, tea tree, snail, salicylic acid, or propolis, and for oily skin you can look for charcoal or green tea,” she suggests.

Where do sheet masks fit into a balanced skincare regimen?

“On nights when I use a cotton-type sheet mask, I would use it right after my toner step,” says Sim. “However, if it is a hydrogel-type mask, I would first tone my skin and follow up with a serum/ampoule—usually a simple hydrating one with hyaluronic acid—before applying the mask. This is such a great trick to double-up the moisture and increase the overall masking experience.”
“You can use it after your serum and before your moisturizer,” Lee notes,  “so the order can be toner, essence, serum, sheet mask, then moisturizer.”
We asked our experts for other general tips for using sheet masks properly.
“You should always, always apply a mask over cleansed and toned skin,” Sim suggests. “The active ingredients will better penetrate the skin when your skin is moist.”
If you’re still not seeing results, consider extending the length of your sheet mask sessions.
“I would say to leave the sheet mask in place for a minimum of 20 minutes,” Chao says. “I personally like leaving them on even longer, so for around 30 to 45 minutes. When I take the mask off, I feel that more of the product absorbed … If you take it off too soon, your face is still really wet, and I always feel like I’ve not absorbed as much product as I can.”

Still, don’t overdo it.
“Avoid leaving the mask on to the point of total dryness,” Sim says.

What specific sheet masks do these beauty experts recommend?

“I normally use sheet masks from South Korea,” Lee says. “I love the ones from the following brands: Troiareuke, A. by BOM, POLATAM, CREMORLAB, MILU, and Common Labs.”
As for Chao, she says, “I really like a lot of Taiwanese brands, actually. There’s My Beauty Diary, Dr. Morita, and also great Korean brands like Papa Recipe.”
“I absolutely love masking and [am] always up to trying out and discovering new ones,” Sim says. “At the moment, some of the ones I have used and liked are Naruko Tea Tree Shine Control & Blemish Clear Mask, Dr Jart+ Dermask Micro Jet Clearing Solution for when I am dealing with pimples, Neogence N3 Arbutin Brightening Mask for brightening, Neogence N3 Ceramide Moisturizing Mask for hydration, The Face Shop Real Nature Mung Bean Mask for soothing, and The Face Shop MASK.LAB Chitosan Face Mask for skin renewal.”
Brand preferences aside, our experts agreed that a sheet mask’s price tag can’t tell you everything.
“It all depends on the brand and what ingredients they use,” Lee notes. “If you purchase a sheet mask of a high-end brand, it doesn’t mean that it will be better than the mid-level ones. The mid-level brands can create amazing sheet masks as well. “
“You may see brands overcharging because they want to profit from the sales, but there are some genuine cases whereby brands actually use new technologies or premium ingredients in their products to warrant a slightly higher than normal price point,” Sim says. “If the science and lab data matches the marketing claims put out by the brand, then I would say go for it!”

How can I use sheet masks in an eco-friendly way?

Let’s address the big, green elephant in the room: Sheet masks are wasteful. That’s true of just about any disposable single-use product—but if you’re careful, you can reduce your footprint.

“The materials used in most mask pouches are not recyclable, so that is an issue,” Sim says. “However, most of the sheet masks themselves are made of biodegradable material (e.g. cotton, pulp fibers), so we can compost those. An eco-friendly option would be to purchase those economical mask packs that come in a pack of 30 sheets.”

“Examples of [those] mask packs include LuLuLun Face Mask, which has 32 sheets in one pack, Saborino Morning Face Mask, which [also] has 32 sheets in one pack, Quality 1st All in One Sheet Mask, which has 50 sheets in one pack, A’PIEU Hyaluthione Soonsoo Daily Sheet Mask, which has 33 sheets in one pack, and MISSHA Pong Dang Water Daily Sheet Mask, which has 30 sheets in one pack.”
“There are certain brands that make a point of being more eco-friendly,” Chao says. “You can look to each brand’s individual policies to find out whether their packaging is recyclable.”

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

What Are Clogged Pores? Here's How To Get Rid Of Them For Good

If you’ve noticed tiny black specks scattered across your skin or you’ve seen an uptick in white bumps popping up, you’re probably wondering what, exactly, is happening. You could be dealing with clogged pores.
Both blackheads and whiteheads occur when gunk builds up in the itty-bitty openings on the surface of your skin called pores.
If these marks are cramping your style, know that there are quite a few different effective methods of unclogging pores. But it all starts with understanding why clogged pores happen in the first place.

Clogged Pores 101: Understanding Your Pores

Pores is just a very basic term to describe small openings in the skin,” says Ronnie Klein, MD, board-certified dermatologist at Connecticut Dermatology Group and co-founder of Pure Bioderm. There are two types of pores: oil pores and sweat pores, but they both work the same way. Oil and sweat reach your pores from their respective glands below the skin’s surface and are released onto the skin, explains Klein.
Oil pores (more commonly known as hair follicles) exist all over your skin, except for your palms and the soles of your feet, says Klein. Their size is determined by genetics, says Holly Cutler, medical esthetician at FACE Skincare~Medical~Wellness in Michigan—so if you have large pores, thank Mom and Dad for that. Sweat pores also exist all over your skin, but they’re super tiny and not visible to the naked eye the way oil pores are, says Klein.
Both types of pores can become clogged, though. So, what do clogged pores look like? It depends.
When oil pores become clogged, they manifest as either blackheads or whiteheads. “Blackheads and whiteheads are in the same family,” says Klein. A clogged hair follicle (aka, an oil pore) is called a comedone, and when the comedone is open—that is, when the top layer of your skin, your epidermis, is not covering it—it changes color and turns black when it comes into contact with oxygen according to Cutler.
When the comedone is closed, it becomes filled with bacteria and exists beneath your epidermis. “Air isn’t able to enter the follicle,” says Cutler. “The bacteria inside of it doesn’t undergo a chemical reaction, so it stays white in color.” Technically, blackheads and whiteheads are both mild forms of acne.
Meanwhile, when sweat pores become clogged, they appear as tiny white bumps known as milia. These bumps are not the same as whiteheads, however. “Milia looks like a whitehead, but it’s actually more of a cyst,” says Klein, which means they require professional treatment.

What causes clogged pores?

Knowing that your pores can get clogged is one thing, but understanding why is another entirely. Some of the common causes of clogged pores are completely within your control, but others aren’t.

1. You have a predisposition to clogged pores.

Cutler says clogged pores are sometimes the result of genetics. Yep, there are just some people who are likelier to get clogged pores than others. On top of that, Klein says genetics are at work even when it comes to whether you develop blackheads or whiteheads.

2. You have a buildup of dead skin cells.

Your skin is constantly shedding dead skin cells and bringing new ones to the surface, but sometimes the dead cells stick to the skin and pile up. Dead skin cell buildup can also cause clogged pores according to Cutler.

3. You have a surge in hormones.

Excess oil production (and as result, clogged pores) may be due to a surge in hormones, says Cutler. There are certain times—for example, when you go through puberty, when you’re on your period, or when you’re pregnant (let’s call them the three Ps)—during which an uptick in hormones stimulates your sebaceous glands to pump out more oil.
When it comes to your period in particular, a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology reported that monthly hormone fluctuations during your menstrual cycle are likely to contribute to acne flare-ups, with 85 percent of women saying that their breakouts get worse leading up to their periods. Plus, a study published in the Journal of Family Medicine and Primary Care examined how pregnancy affects skin, and researchers found that increased oil production in the third trimester leads to acne.

4. You don’t cleanse enough.

Cutler says when you don’t wash your face enough, you allow dead skin cells, dirt, makeup, and anything else on top of your skin to build up, leading to clogged pores. Klein explains that it’s particularly crucial to rinse off post exercise: “Not showering and washing [after] a workout can cause inflammation and clogged pores,” she says.

5. Or, you cleanse too much.

While washing your face is important, you don’t need to go overboard. “A lot of people with acne-prone skin think they need to scrub skin and never moisturize,” says Klein, “but the drier your skin is, the more oil you will produce.” And you know what happens when your sebaceous glands go into overdrive: clogged pores.
The American Academy of Dermatology recommends cleansing twice a day (as well as washing your face after heavy sweating).

6. You wear pore-clogging lotions and makeup.

Some beauty products contain ingredients that can cause clogged pores, says Cutler. She says some of the biggest offenders are coconut oil, sodium lauryl sulfate, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, cetyl acetate, and cocoa butter. If you’re noticing clogged pores, check your products for these ingredients.

7. You touch your face all the time.

Think about all the dirt and germs that are on your hands. When you touch your face, you’re transferring whatever’s on your fingers to your face. That gunk can leave you with clogged pores and make your acne worse according to the U.S. National Library of Medicine.

What are the best ways to fix clogged pores?

Nixing clogged pores—and preventing new ones from forming in the future—is possible with the right skin care routine.

1. Wash your face twice a day.

Since oil, makeup, and dead skin cells can clog your pores when they’re sitting on top of your skin, get into the habit of cleansing morning and night. If you find yourself with blackheads or whiteheads caused by clogged pores regularly, Klein suggests using a cleanser with salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid. “A salicylic acid wash is one of the cornerstones of acne treatments,” says Klein. Salicylic acid is a compound found in plants that encourages exfoliation and has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties according to the National Institutes of Health.
You can find salicylic acid derived from willow bark extract in Alba Botanica Acnedote Deep Pore Wash. Cutler notes that you can get a deeper clean by pairing a salicylic acid cleanser with a tool, like the Clarisonic Mia 2 ($169), but she also notes that washing your face with a tool like this every day could be overkill.

2. Cleanse after working out, too.

Headed to the gym before or after work? You don’t have to rely on whatever generic facial cleanser is in the locker room. Remember: Sweat buildup leads to clogged pores, and Klein says you should always wash your face after you’re done at the gym. An easy way to refresh sweaty skin when you’re on the go is with a micellar water, such as Pacifica Cactus Water Micellar Cleansing Tonic.

3. Try an at-home peel.

One of the best ways to say sayonara to pore-clogging dead skin cell buildup is by exfoliating once or twice a week, says Cutler. At-home peels use acids to chemically break down buildup—no scrubbing necessary. “Glycolic paired with salicylic is really great for clogged pores,” says Cutler. “This combo works very effectively to loosen up blackheads.”
A study published in the journal Clinical Therapeutics found that salicylic acid pads effectively reduce acne, while a study published in the journal Dermatologic Surgery found that glycolic acid peels also had a positive effect on curbing breakouts. Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial is a once-a-week chemical exfoliator that features a combination of alpha hydroxy acids (glycolic and lactic) and beta hydroxy acid (salicylic) to blast through dead skin cell buildup, leaving you with clearer pores and brighter skin.

4. Exfoliate with a scrub.

Mechanical exfoliation happens when you rub your skin with a scrub, brush, or other exfoliating tool (like the Clarisonic Mia 2) to physically remove the buildup, and it’s a good option if you have clogged pores. Cutler recommends looking for a scrub that also contains an acid for a one-two punch against clogged pores. One option we love: Tata Harper Resurfacing Cleanser, which is formulated with salicylic acid to chemically exfoliate and apricot seed powder to manually bust through the gunk. While this exfoliating cleanser is gentle enough to use every day, keep in mind that over-scrubbing skin is drying according to Klein.

5. Slather on a clay mask.

There’s a good reason why clay masks are super trendy. Clay absorbs oil and impurities in pores, says Cutler. Wildcare Bee Rosy Clay Mask sops up oil and also eases inflammation, making it a win-win for people with acne-prone skin who deal with clogged pores frequently.

6. Whip up a charcoal mask at home.

One of Cutler’s favorite DIY treatments for clogged pores is a charcoal clay mask. “Charcoal is so popular right now,” says Cutler, adding that like clay, charcoal absorbs pore-clogging impurities.
Mix together 1 Tbsp. activated charcoal powder, ½ Tbps. bentonite clay, and ¼ Tbps. water, apply the mask to your face, and leave it on for five minutes before rinsing off. Leaving this mask on for more than five minutes could be drying, says Cutler, so watch the clock.

7. Spot treat with benzoyl peroxide.

Another gold standard in getting rid of clogged pores is benzoyl peroxide, an antibacterial ingredient, says Klein. For a study published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, participants applied a 5.3 percent benzoyl peroxide foam to their faces, chests, upper backs, and shoulders twice a day for a month and experienced significantly clearer skin.
Klein says benzoyl peroxide is drying, so don’t use it every day, don’t use it in conjunction with other strong acne-fighting ingredients, and be vigilant about moisturizing. Kate Somerville Anti Bac Clearing Lotion is formulated with benzoyl peroxide as well as ingredients that prevent excessive dryness.

8. Add a retinoid to your routine.

Retinoid is a derivative of vitamin A, and it has the ability to minimize the size of sebaceous glands and curb the excess oil production that can lead to clogged pores, says Klein. A study published in the journal Biochimica et Biophysica Acta calls retinoids (whether taken orally or applied topically) “the most effective and first choice for acne treatment.”
While retinoids used to be available by prescription only, there is now an OTC version: Differin Gel. Retinoids leave you sensitive to the sun, so only use them at night (and follow up with dedicated SPF in the morning), says Klein. They’re also drying, so start by only using a pea-sized amount of retinoid two or three nights a week and gradually work your way up to nightly use, Klein adds.
One note: The FDA warns that oral retinoids (like Accutane) come with a host of serious side effects, including the risk of birth defects if you’re pregnant. Because of this, any female patient who’s prescribed an oral retinoid by their doctor needs to enroll in iPledge, a mandatory risk management program. While on an oral retinoid, you’ll have to use two forms of birth control to prevent pregnancy.

9. Make moisturizing a priority.

You might be sensing a theme here: The majority of remedies for clogged pores are drying. That means moisturizing is a must. But don’t just reach for any lotion. Use one that’s oil-free, says Klein, since this won’t clog your pores further. Juice Beauty SPF 30 Oil-Free Moisturizer fits the bill, offering physical sun protection with zinc oxide and lightweight hydration with aloe and hyaluronic acid.

10. Switch to non-comedogenic makeup.

Check your makeup labels for the term non-comedogenic, says Klein, because this means they should be free of pore-clogging ingredients. However, Cutler points out that this isn’t a fail-safe remedy for clogged pores. She explains that there’s no agency regulating whether or not products are actually non-comedogenic, so a brand could feasibly say that their products are non-comedogenic without that actually being the case. Unfortunately, the only way to find out if something is truly non-comedogenic is to test it out and see how your skin reacts.

11. Visit a professional.

If you suspect you have milia, the only way to get rid of this type of clogged pore is with the help of a dermatologist, says Klein. Per a study published in the journal Oncology Letters, milia can be removed with a professional extracting tool.
A professional, whether that’s a derm or esthetician, may have in-office treatment options that can alleviate blackheads and whiteheads, too. Cutler has seen results when using Dermalinfusion on patients. This treatment exfoliates dead skin cells, extracts dirt from pores, and infuses skin with serums all via a handheld tool with an exfoliating diamond tip.
Whatever option you choose to fix your clogged pores, consistency is key according to both experts we spoke to. So, while dealing with clogged pores and the acne they bring isn’t anyone’s idea of a good time, it’s important to carve out time to address your clogged pores. Cheers to clearer skin ahead!

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What Does Toner Do? All Your Questions About Toner, Answered

Each morning and evening you cleanse your face and apply a moisturizer (right?). In the quest for clean, even, and firm skin, those steps have long been thought of as the essentials. But now, thanks to the popularity of the 10-step Korean skincare routine and more skincare companies at Sephora than we know what to do with, skincare junkies are finding more and more products we consider essential, like toner. Beauty experts extol the virtues of toner, but how many of us actually know what it does?
Learning about a new beauty product can be overwhelming, particularly if you’ve already got a skincare routine that you love. Plus, who has the time to understand a new product when you’re scrambling just to find a few minutes to yourself in the morning and evening to wash your face? But set your doubts aside: Once you understand what toner does, you’ll want to incorporate it into your routine.
We spoke to beauty experts and skincare scientists to answer all of your questions about facial toner. We got the answers on who should use it, when it should be applied, and that essential question: What does toner do?
Here’s everything you need to know about this crucial boost to your skincare routine.

What does toner do?

According to Clara Song of Catherine Jinn, a Korean skincare line that aims to bring together Eastern and Western approaches to skincare, facial toner is meant to cleanse your face and prepare your skin for the application of the serums and creams that follow in your skincare routine.
Toner should be applied after you wash your face to remove any leftover debris or dirt from the skin, giving you the perfect clean canvas to apply the rest of your skincare essentials.
Song says many people think they can skip facial toner, but using it really helps enhance a skincare routine.
“It’s easy to think cleaning the skin with a cleanser is enough, but this added step of toner can be an important step in keeping the skin clean without damaging it,” she says.
According to Charlotte Cho, esthetician and founder of Soko Glam and The Klog, a good toner should leave your skin feeling clean and hydrated. After you apply toner, your skin should feel soft and supple, she writes at The Klog, not tight or dry.

What is in facial toner?

Traditionally, toners were made from astringent ingredients that were meant to cause the skin to contract or tighten according to David Pollock, a chemist who has worked on many skincare products and consults in the beauty industry. Most toners were made using an alcohol or witch hazel base, which sometimes stung when they were applied to skin. These products gave toner a bad reputation as a product that would leave your skin stinging, red, or tight: not exactly what you want as part of your beauty routine.
Modern toners, however, are very different.
“Quality toner usually doesn’t contain ingredients like alcohol, which dry out and can even strip the skin of its nutrients,” Song tells HealthyWay.
Rather than assaulting your skin, modern toners are packed with antioxidants, nutrition, and hydrating materials that leave your skin feeling great, according to Rhonda Q. Klein, MD, a dermatologist practicing with the Connecticut Dermatology Group and a former assistant professor of dermatology at Yale University.
“A toner is a fast-penetrating liquid that removes dead skin cells off the surface of the skin leaving plump refreshed skin,” she tells us. “They are primers for the rest of your serums and moisturizers.”
Today, toners are formulated to fit a number of skincare needs from delivering powerful hydration to shrinking your pores and even reducing acne, Klein says.

What does toner do to balance pH?

In the past, facial toner was used to balance the pH level of your skin after it was cleansed.
In case you need a quick refresher on Chemistry 101: pH indicates how alkaline or acidic something is. It’s measured on a scale of 1 to 14, with water—which is neither acidic or alkaline—falling right in the middle with a measurement of 7. Anything with a higher pH is considered alkaline, while anything with a lower pH is considered acidic.
What does all this science have to do with skincare? Well, your skin is naturally acidic with an average pH of 4.7 according to a 2006 study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science. The acidity of your skin helps it it stay healthy and keeps bacteria at bay.
“pH balance is important because if it becomes unbalanced, the skin weakens and is more susceptible to bacteria and infections,” Song explains.
So, what does toner do to balance pH? In the past, most cleansers were very alkaline according to Pollock. Because cleaners were alkaline, toner was promoted as a way to restore the proper (acidic) pH of your skin. However, with advancements in the formulation of cleansers, it’s become less necessary to use a toner purely to reset the pH level of skin.
“Multi-purpose cleansers started to do more and be more closely pH-balanced for the skin,” Pollock says. “For the past 15 or 20 years, I have had very few clients interested in launching any type of toner.”

Where does toner fit into Korean skincare?

If toners had gone out of fashion, why are so many people talking about what toner does in 2018? The answer: Korean skincare.
“With today’s K-beauty invasion, toners are coming back into popularity,” says Pollock.
Whereas Americans tend to emphasize makeup products that can make your skin look fantastic, a Korean skincare routine emphasizes having skin that looks healthy, even, and glowing without additional products. Women who follow Korean beauty regimens aim to achieve this using a 10-step skincare routine that involves—you guessed it—facial toner.
According to Cho, Koreans embrace toner as a way to get the most out of the rest of their skincare routine. She uses the analogy of a sponge: If the sponge is completely dried out, it won’t absorb much of the liquid it comes into contact with. However, if it’s slightly damp, it will absorb liquid much more quickly.
Your skin works the same way, she explains. If it is dried out after cleansing, you won’t get as much out of the serums and creams that you put on afterward. Toner, she says, provides the hydration and nutrients that leave your skin ready to take all it can from the rest of the products in your beauty routine.

What does toner do for people with oily skin? Should everyone be using it?

With all this talk of hydration, you might wonder if you can still benefit from using toner if you have oily skin. Good news: You absolutely can.
Cho points out that hydration has to do with the amount of water in your skin, not the amount of oil. Although having skin that feels dry might make you feel like you’ve temporarily defeated your oily skin, it’s not actually addressing the problem. In fact, Cho says that almost every client she sees could benefit from more hydration, whether their skin type presents as dry or oily.
Modern toners are formulated to address a variety of skin issues, so the key is finding one that works for you.
With the right product, Klein says anyone can benefit from using a toner. “If you feel that your skin care regimen is lacking and that your skin is not optimized, adding on a toner is the perfect primer for the rest of your skin care routine,” she says.
Here are toners that the pros recommend for specific skin types:

  • If you have oily skin, try Fresh Umbrian Clay Purifying Facial Toner ($35).
    • This toner gives you the same hydrated but clean feeling that you would experience after wearing a clay mask, without the time investment.
  • If you have dry skin, try Galactomyces Alcohol-Free Toner ($16).
    • This toner has a secret weapon: fermented ingredients that will leave your skin looking smooth and balanced. Korean skincare enthusiasts often use products with fermented ingredients, and this toner is a great way to get started.  
  • If you have combination skin, try Son & Park Beauty Water ($30).
    • This toner is designed to cleanse without drying, making it perfect for people who experienced localized breakouts. With lavender and rosewater, it will soothe your skin and leave you feeling energized.
  • If you have sensitive skin, try Kenzoki Fresh Lotus Water ($29).
    • This misting toner is the perfect choice for women who want something gentle. You’ll feel refreshed and clean no matter when you apply it.
  • If you’re feeling puffy, red, or dry, try Darphin Intral Toner With Chamomile ($54).
    • No one likes when their face feels inflamed. The chamomile will calm irritation and is ideal for a variety of skin types.

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When considering a toner, Klein recommends taking a quick look at the ingredients to determine whether the toner will fit your needs. For instance, rosewater is hydrating and clarifying, while chamomile is calming and soothing. People who are dealing with acne might benefit from an alcohol-based toner, but most everyone else should stick to a water-based formulation, she says.
There are also some ingredients to avoid, depending on your skin type.
“If you have dry or sensitive skin, avoid alcohol, retinols, glycolic, or benzoyl peroxide toners,” Klein says. “If you are oily or acne-prone, avoid toners with vitamin E and other essential oils.”

How do I incorporate toner into my beauty routine?

Toner should be either the second or third step in your skincare routine.
In most cases, you should apply your facial toner directly after cleansing in the morning and the evening.
“You want to tone within one minute of washing your face so that the nutrients are absorbed best,” Klein says.
The only time you should wait to apply your toner is if you are exfoliating after cleansing. Apply your toner after that step; otherwise, it will be washed away when you wash off your exfoliator.
Some people prefer to apply the toner directly using their hands, but if you do that, you want to make sure that your hands are very clean. If not, you run the risk of introducing more debris onto your skin.
“Our hands are not clean either, so rubbing them on our face sort of defeats the purpose of cleaning it,” Song says. She recommends using a cotton pad to gently wipe or pat the skin with toner, without aggressively rubbing it in.
There are many gentle options for toners, so if you find that your skin is irritated, try switching products. If it still feel like too much, try using toner just once a day. Song recommends using it at night in this case, to be sure that your face is especially clean after a long day in order to prevent issues.
“Not having properly cleansed skin can lead to acne and breakouts,” she says.

Can I make a DIY facial toner?

The products listed above are a great way to get started with incorporating facial toner into your beauty routine. However, if you want to try a DIY toner, that’s possible as well.
Witch hazel is readily available and can be applied to the skin directly or diluted with water to make a witch hazel toner.
If you’re looking for a toner that is a bit more gentle, Pollock recommends steeping rose petals in water and adding a bit of glycerin, a natural, non-toxic hydrating compound made from vegetable fat that can boost your collagen levels. You can find glycerin at your local drug store.
Another popular DIY option is creating a green tea toner, which Klein recommends. This is super easy: Brew a cup of green tea, letting it steep for three to five minutes. After the liquid has cooled, you can apply it directly to your face. Be sure to store any DIY toners in airtight containers in the fridge when they’re not in use.
You might have heard of using lemon to make your own DIY toner, but experts don’t recommend this. Lemon is very acidic and can disrupt the pH balance of your skin. Plus, it can leave you exposed to sunburn.
You may not have grown up using facial toner as part of your beauty routine, but adjusting your skincare regimen to fit toner in can be a simple step toward healthier skin.
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What Is Micellar Water And What Is It Good For?

Full disclosure: I actually had to ask my editor “what is micellar water?” when she asked me to write this piece. I’d never heard of it, but she assured me I’d love it.
And hey, I’m always down to try new beauty products (that’s what micellar water is, by the way). I headed over to Gypset and Pearl, a beauty boutique down the street from my house, where owner Brittany Cramer Manning helped me select a micellar water to try out.
I ended up purchasing Eau Thermale Avène Micellar Lotion Cleanser, an affordable French product that’s (thankfully) available in the U.S. I spoke to Manning and other skincare experts to answer all my burning questions about this cult fave product: What is micellar water? Does it really work? Which ones should I buy? and more.
Plus in the name of good journalism, I’ve been using it for the past two weeks so I can personally attest to how micellar water works—and why I think it should become part of your beauty routine ASAP.

So … what is micellar water, really?

The history of micellar water is actually kind of fascinating. Apparently French tap water is sort of le pits. French water, especially in Paris, is extremely hard, meaning it contains large deposits of minerals like magnesium that can wreak havoc on your skin and hair.
So the French figured out a skincare solution for hard water: micellar water.
What is micellar water’s secret?
Micelles are tiny balls of cleansing oils suspended in water, and the formula is simple but sophisticated,” says Margot White, a health educator and owner of The Choosy Chick, an online boutique and educational source dedicated to non-toxic, green beauty products. “These micelles attract dirt and oil. You need to suspend the liquid on an absorbent material like cotton pads. The cotton pads saturated in micellar water absorb all the grime and makeup, leaving clean, hydrated skin behind.”
Unlike soap, micelles gently remove impurities from the skin without stripping away the natural oils your skin needs, as a toner might.
“Micellar water is gentle and hydrating,” says board-certified Yale-trained dermatologist Rhonda Q. Klein, MD. “It won’t remove heavy makeup (like waterproof mascara), but is great to remove basic makeup, cleanse, and freshen the face without drying, stinging, or leaving behind residue.”

Can I use micellar water every day?

Yes! You can! In fact, Klein says she uses micellar water at night to remove makeup and natural toxins that have accumulated during the day and in the morning to prepare her face for the day. So I did the same.
To get a truly unfiltered experience with the product, I’ve been using micellar water only, even giving up my beloved Pond’s moisturizer in the name of research.
Micellar water is gentle enough to use twice daily (or even more) if you need to wipe down your face after a sweat sesh or a day out in the elements.
In addition to finding out what micellar water is, I also needed to get the lowdown on the best way to use it. It turns out that using micellar water couldn’t be easier.
To use micellar water, simply soak a cotton pad with the water and gently rub your face. If the cotton pad becomes saturated with makeup or dirt, get a clean cotton pad, soak in micellar water, and start the process over. After cleansing with micellar water, your face should feel soft and hydrated.
And if you’re worried about how micellar water will react to your skin type, here’s some good news:
David Lortscher, MD, founder of bespoke skincare company Curology, tells HealthyWay:Micellar cleansing water can work well for most skin types because it is usually free of harsh ingredients and astringents, meaning it is gentle enough for most skin types. However, there are specific micellar cleansing waters formulated specifically for each skin type, so it can still be a good idea to select the right formulation for your skin.”
So yeah, it’s basically the perfect skincare product.

Million Dollar Question: Does micellar water work?

Once my micellar water research journey was well underway and I had progressed from “what is micellar water?” to “how does micellar water work?” I had to find out if it works. And I read some interesting claims.
I have to admit I was skeptical when I read that micellar water could replace my facial wash, toner, and hydrating cream as an all-in-one cleanser, no rinsing required. Because while any old soap will do for my facial cleanser, I am straight up addicted to my Pond’s dry skin cream. Let’s just say I had some doubts.
So was I able to replace all of my facial cleansers and creams with micellar water?
Short answer: No. I used micellar water as my only facial cleanser and moisturizer for a couple of days, and by day three my eye was swollen shut as a result of clogged eyelid glands. Now, I’m not completely blaming the micellar water. After all, I didn’t clean my makeup brushes as often as I should have, so that could have resulted in an eye infection. But not rinsing my face for three days certainly didn’t help.
Still, I’m a micellar water convert. Now that I’m using it as the first step in my cleansing routine (rather than as the only step), my skin feels softer, my skin tone is more even (especially where I’m prone to dark circles under my eyes), and I haven’t even missed my beloved Pond’s this week!
The best part is that micellar water really does work for most skin types. I was nervous about giving up my face cream for this experiment because I have incredibly dry skin. But because micelles are tiny drops of oil, my face didn’t feel dry, even after rinsing away the micellar water. If you have oily skin, the micelles in micellar water will actually remove the “bad” oils that clog your pores and cause breakouts, leaving soft, clean skin behind.
Some people may be able to use micellar water as an all-in-one cleanser, and that’s fantastic. But most people will want to use micellar water as a great addition to a skincare routine, perhaps replacing a harsher toner. Micellar water is perfect for removing makeup and other gunk from your face, but it’s still a good idea to wash your face with your favorite cleanser afterward.

Doesn’t micellar water contain surfactants? I thought those were a skincare no-no.

One caveat (hey, nothing’s perfect!): Micellar water contains surfactants, or surface active ingredients, which may irritate sensitive skin.
One common surfactant found in micellar water and other cleansers is sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). Although SLS has been linked to some scary-sounding research, there’s no definitive proof that SLS causes cancer or other diseases, and the Environmental Working Group lists SLS as a low-hazard chemical. Still, micellar water that contains surfactants could irritate sensitive skin. When purchasing micellar water, always read the label first to see if it’s an SLS-free product.
If you find your skin is red or irritated after using micellar water (SLS-free or not), be sure to use a second cleanser to rinse it off after use. If the problem persists, micellar water (and surfactants in general) may not be for you.

Should I splurge on micellar water?

There’s no need to spend mega bucks on micellar water.
Here’s a rundown of the top micellar waters that dermatologists recommend. They’re all priced right around $20, so you can get that chic French girl glow for trés cheap.

INIKA Organic Micellar Cleansing Rosewater ($22)

Many of the mainstream micellar products contain additives like ‘fragrance,’  so we recommend using an organic option,” says White. One micellar water she recommends is INIKA’s Organic Micellar Cleansing Rosewater. It’s certified organic, cruelty-free, vegan, and halal, so it’s a product that fits almost any lifestyle. Plus, just as White said, it doesn’t contain chemical fragrance, so if you smell anything, it’ll just be a delicate floral hint of rosehip.

Bioderma Sensibio H2O Micellar Water ($11)

“Bioderma has long been the micellar water gold standard,” says Klein. What’s nice about Bioderma products is that you can shop for a micellar water based on your skin’s specific needs. So if your skin is ultra dry like mine, Bioderma’s hydrating micellar water contains ingredients designed to combat the effects of dry skin. If you have different skin issues, like acne or sun damage, they’ve got a micellar water for that too.

Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water ($7)

“I recommend Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing Water because it is a generally affordable brand while also still being an effective product. Furthermore, Garnier carries micellar cleansing water for most all skin types,” says Lortscher. Garnier’s mattifying micellar water is ideal if your skin tends to be oily. And if you’re addicted to your waterproof liner and mascara, Garnier has a micellar water specially formulated to remove stubborn makeup. They even come in cute travel sizes, perfect for when you’re on the go.

Simple Micellar Cleansing Water ($6)

There’s a reason Simple’s Micellar Cleansing Water has legions of fans. It’s inexpensive, it’s SLS-free, and it’s won a ton of skincare awards, including a 2016 Allure Magazine Best in Beauty award. Simple’s micellar water is designed to leave sensitive skin clean and hydrated, and it’s perfect for all skin types.

Can I make my own micellar water?

Ready to play scientist? With just a few supplies, you actually can make your own micellar water at home. Rebekah Epling, an herbalist who creates her own botanical products, shares her favorite micellar water recipe.
“The key to craft homemade micellar water is using a good quality water, an alcohol-free astringent, a humectant, and an oil,” says Epling. “The good thing about this homemade micellar water is that there is room to make it your own and tailor it to your own skin needs.”
When shopping for a water to use, Epling says that she prefers hydrosols, which are the byproduct of stream distilling plant matter for essential oils, but if you don’t like floral scents that come from products like rose water, you can use plain distilled water as well.
In this recipe, witch hazel is the astringent ingredient. The witch hazel that is sold in most grocery stores and pharmacies can contain up to 50 percent alcohol. If you have sensitive skin, you’ll want to purchase witch hazel that doesn’t contain any alcohol, like this one from the Homestead Company. If you do purchase an alcohol-free witch hazel, it won’t be as shelf stable, says Epling, so you’ll need to store it in the fridge.
To make your own micellar water, simply combine the following ingredients and gently shake in container to mix:

For a one-ounce bottle:

“You can also mix this up fairly quickly, so small batches are easy to make, especially if you’re concerned about shelf-life. …Drops or emptied pills of vitamin E also prolong the freshness of your product. You can even make a large batch, freeze it in ice cube trays, and thaw as needed, says Epling.
And there you have it, folks: If you’ve been wondering “What is micellar water?”, the answer is that it’s the beauty product you didn’t know you needed in your life.

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These Unknown Factors Are Affecting Your Hair Health

At some point or another, we’ve all been there: staring at ourselves in the mirror, examining the volume and sheen—or lack thereof—of our hair. Maybe you’ve had a terrible hair week, a months-long bender of dry ends and dull strands, or perhaps waning hair health has been a lifelong battle. And it’s not like you haven’t read up on what could possibly be the cause. You’re well-versed in the dangers of chemical processing, heat styling, and running around in the sun or splashing around in chlorine without proper protection and post-care.
Here’s the thing, though. There are a handful of underlying causes affecting your hair health that you might not be aware of, such as hormonal imbalances, genetic predispositions, physiological issues, and even diet. If you’re still trying to pinpoint the reasons why your hair won’t grow, lacks luminosity, or is constantly breaking off, you’re in the right place.
With the help of a dermatologist, hairstylist, and registered dietician, we’re here to help you do a 180 on your string of no-good hair days.

The Top Factors for Hair Health

Though all the factors we’re outlining below won’t apply to everyone, it’s entirely possible that you might be dealing with one or two of them. This is especially true if you’ve been battling unhealthy hair for an extended period of time and can’t pinpoint the issue to some of the more obvious contributors to poor hair health, such as going overboard with heat styling (put the flat iron down, friend) or excessive processing.

1. Your Environment

“Everything you do is either damaging your hair or preventing damage. Sleeping on cotton or silk pillows, the fiber of the brush you use, how often you touch your hair, how much wind exposure it has—on and on and on,” noted Cash Lawless, a celebrity hairstylist for SEVEN haircare.

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Sleeping on silk versus cotton and brushing your hair with high quality bristles will prevent tugging and snagging. Touching your hair often can result in greasiness and limpness. Another environmental factor is your water quality.
[pullquote align=”center”]”Yes, moisture is great for your hair, but when it’s 90 percent humidity, it can be really be your worst enemy.”
—Cash Lawless[/pullquote]
Additionally, soft and hard water are notoriously damaging to hair and require adjustments in your routine. Hard water means your water has high amounts of minerals, which can result in brittleness and lack of shine. If your shower has chalky white residue buildup, you have hard water. Either splurge on a water softener, or stock your shower with color-protecting products and chelating or clarifying shampoos. Soft water may require you to wash your hair more frequently, and you should actively avoid parabens and sulfates.
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Lawless said that climate is another major factor to consider.
“This is almost solely due to our greatest hair friend and enemy—water! Yes, moisture is great for your hair, but when it’s 90 percent humidity, it can be really be your worst enemy. The right products are essential to battle humidity,” he said.
Opt for shampoos and conditioners that are smoothing and styling products that are anti-frizz. These create a protective layer of the hair to add a little weight and reduce flyaways.

2. Hormones

There are a handful of hormones that affect your hair health, but one of the most pervasive is cortisol, which is known as the “stress hormone,” notes Jeanine Downie, MD, a dermatologist for Zwivel. High quantities of cortisol in your system are responsible for thinning hair and a reduction in overall growth.

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Downie said that exercising five to seven days per week, sleeping seven or more hours, and avoiding excess alcohol and caffeine can also help keep the stress hormones at bay. Beyond that, reducing your workload and carving out time for yourself can help reduce stress.
“Thyroid conditions, variations in estrogen and progesterone, as well as testosterone, can all impact hair health, as well as loss and growth,” adds Downie. “Peri-menopausal women typically start to notice hair texture changes and potentially eventual loss that we usually check in the office when looking at causes for hair changes. In addition, many postpartum women suffer from hair loss associated with or directly related to breastfeeding hormones; this is a very common complaint for many women after giving birth.”


These are issues that ought to be addressed by a professional on a case-by-case basis. Schedule an appointment with your doctor or a dermatologist.

3. Medical Conditions

There are a handful of medical conditions that affect your hair’s integrity. If you suspect you have one of the below, we highly advise meeting with a doctor to devise a treatment game plan.

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“Androgenetic alopecia—commonly known as male or female pattern baldness—is related to a gradual thinning of the hair that leads to eventual loss,” says Downie. “Common treatments include nutraceuticals (my favorite is Nutrafol, although Viviscal has also had numerous clinical studies to support its effectiveness), Rogaine topical, finasteride for certain male patients, and spironolactone for certain, eligible female patients.”
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Hirsutism, or excess, unwanted hair growth, is another relatively common disorder that Downie sees. She said it’s most often experienced by postmenopausal women, those with genetic predisposition for hair in unwanted places, or in individuals with polycystic ovarian syndrome.
“We usually check to make sure there is no hormonally-associated condition if this is a new finding for an individual, but most often treat the unwanted hair effectively with laser [linkbuilder id=”6707″ text=”hair removal”],” she said. “Several sessions are required on a monthly basis and depending on the location and the individual, treatments may be required beyond a year. However, permanently getting rid of the unwanted hair is certainly worth the wait, and my patients (and I) can vouch to that!”
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Inflammatory conditions that impact the hair growth negatively, said Downie, include seborrheic dermatitis, which is one of the most common causes of adult dandruff, ringworm (clinically known as tinea capitis), psoriasis, contact dermatitis from potentially inflammatory ingredients found in some hair products, and predispositions for inflammation.
“Depending on the cause, treatments range from prescription and over-the-counter shampoos and solutions, anti-fungal topical or oral treatments, as well as prescription oral medications to treat the inflammation, injections of steroids for severe inflammation, and even biologic medications in the case of hard-to-treat psoriasis,” says Downie.

4. Diet

A consistently poor diet will almost certainly affect your overall hair health, noted Brooke Alpert, a registered dietician and author of The Diet Detox. As a general rule, you should eat a variety of fruits and vegetables, lean proteins, healthy fats, and reduce your intake of processed foods. To help narrow your focus to a specific hair health issue, though, we’re addressing three primary categories: protein, iron, and antioxidant-rich foods.
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“Diets low in protein have been shown to result in hair loss, and protein intake has also been shown to prevent hair thinning. Make sure you’re getting the recommended daily amount, which for most women, that’s at least 46 grams of protein per day,” said Alpert. “My recommendation is to have a good quality protein source at every single meal. Opt for organic or wild sources of eggs, fish, beef, and chicken.”

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Regarding iron, Alpert noted that [linkbuilder id=”6215″ text=”iron deficiency”] is one of the world’s most common nutritional deficiencies and that it is a well-known cause of hair loss. Premenopausal women, specifically, are at the highest risk for this anemia, she said, and they should consume iron-rich foods, like beef, liver, lentils, spinach, and black beans to prevent it.


“Antioxidants are compounds that prevent something called oxidative damage in our bodies,” she says. “Oxidative stress has been linked to hair loss, so fill up on these to keep your mane looking shiny and long. Foods high in antioxidants include blueberries, blackberries, dark chocolate, and dark leafy vegetables.”

5. Damaging Styling Habits

We’re all guilty of making hair mistakes, but with knowledge comes power and, in this case, healthier hair! Lawless said that one of the most common no-nos he’s seen is the combination of oil and heat.

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“This is an especially big mistake made by women with texture who love their moisture,” he said. “Oil is an amazing treatment for the hair, but when you add high levels of heat with the oil still in the hair—like irons or blow dryers—this will make the hair incredibly brittle and susceptible to breakage.”
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This is also true for leave-in conditioners, so make sure you’re only using a heat-protectant product and not a conditioner or oil before heat-styling your hair. Another big mistake is using sea salt before blow drying, flattening, or curling. Lawless said that sea salt and heat will absolutely fry your hair.
Finally, being overly aggressive with your brush—or creating a lot of tension on wet hair—can damage your locks, too.
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“If you are putting your hair under tension, like a pony tail, and then letting it dry in that position, you are stretching the hair under that rubber band and allowing it to dry in a brittle state. The next time you brush or pull that rubber band out, the chances of breakage are much higher,” said Lawless. “Also, I see women just beat their hair with their brush. Please use a detangler. Collectively, your hair may be strong, but each strand is weak. Over time a little snap here and little break there adds up.”

The Last Strand

Our best piece of advice is to be proactive about your hair health. If you notice something is really off, schedule an appointment with a doctor or dermatologist to pinpoint the cause and start turning things around.

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Also make small changes that have a lot of impact, like switching out your cotton pillowcase for a silk one, abiding by the recommended daily allowances for all of your macronutrients and micronutrients, taking more evening strolls to reduce cortisol levels, and avoiding the common hair mistakes we outlined above. Not only will your mane look better when you do all the above, you’ll feel better.

Categories
Conscious Beauty Lifestyle

Meet Skinno, The App That Wants To Tell You What's In Your Skincare

Aqua. Propylene glycol. Aloe barbadensis leaf juice. Phenoxyethanol. Fucus vesiculosus extract. These are all ingredients of the closest skincare product to my desk right now (Mario Badescu’s Facial Spray—rosewater version, obv).
But what are those things? Aqua: water—got it. Aloe barbadensis: aloe vera is good! The rest? Not so sure. Some of them sound pretty chemical-y, and I never did too well in chemistry class. That extract though, that’s probably good, right?
And herein lies the problem with skincare: Most people don’t know what’s in their products. And even if they’ve heard of some of the product’s ingredients, the average consumer doesn’t know what those ingredients do. Or if they’re effective for their skin type. Or if they’re even all that safe.
You’ve likely heard various reasons we should avoid synthetic chemicals: If you can’t pronounce it, don’t use it! That ingredient is a chemical! Chemicals are used to clean toilet bowls! (Nevermind the fact that even plain old water is a chemical substance—effectively, everything is, in fact.) This fear of chemicals, often termed “chemophobia,” is misguided at best, as plenty of researchers attest.
Still, the cultural trend toward safety via nature has led to an industry-wide movement—which is a bit misleading given the fact that “natural” means zilch to the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA), which regulates (but doesn’t approve) cosmetics and skincare in America. That term, and some others like “clean” or “green,” aren’t actually regulated at all. While the FDA does ban intentionally false or misleading packaging, it’s the responsibility of the manufacturers to act in good faith when it comes to what can be put on the front of products.
So what’s a consumer to do?
This is a problem Lisa Guerrera has been researching for years. A self-described skincare junkie, Guerrera is a chemist focused on the science of skincare. She did her undergraduate thesis on chemophobia, and now she’s pursuing her master’s in cosmetic engineering and building Skinno, an app aimed at educating consumers about ingredients in their products.
Most consumers have difficulty decoding ingredients and their applications. Guerrera, Skinno’s founder and CEO, realized that this lack of knowledge—combined with the largely unregulated cosmetics industry—leads consumers to make decisions about products based on marketing and scare tactics instead of concentrating on ingredients.
Guerrera co-founded Skinno with Christina Torres, whose background is in biology and science communication, in October 2017. The app, which has been in development since February, uses a scanner to read ingredient labels and break down what’s in your product and what those ingredients do. The app’s searchable ingredient database is entirely sourced by Torres, who has professional experience with biological databases; she personally researches each ingredient and writes consumer-friendly descriptions. Skinno also has a Routines feature to help users remember to actually use their products.
As the Skinno team develops the app further, they’re focusing on personalizing users’ skincare experiences: What does your skin need and why? What are the best ingredients to achieve that and why?
We hopped on the chance to speak with Guerrera about the app and how it can help consumers navigate the current skincare market.

HealthyWay: I love the idea of knowing what each ingredient in my products is used for. What’s your ultimate goal for Skinno?

Guerrera: Ultimately we want people to be educated about their products before they buy them. Consumers have the right to easy access to scientifically accurate information about products, and we know Skinno will be able to help with that through instant education and personalization.

What can ingredients tell us about our skincare products?

Ingredients can tell us a lot! These days, a lot of products are marketed based off of some “miracle” ingredient that will cure all our skin woes, but in reality, if you look up the ingredient, there is no real research backing up those claims. Ingredients can tell us if a product is really doing what it’s claiming to do for our skin.

What should people be paying attention to when they’re buying their skincare?

Definitely pay attention to what’s at the top of the ingredients list. Those are the most concentrated ingredients in a product. So if a product is claiming certain things, you would want the ingredient that will do the thing to be toward the top. There are a few exceptions to this rule, but it’s overall a good rule of thumb.
People should definitely pay attention if they have a known allergy or sensitivity to an ingredient. Sometimes ingredients can be called a different name, but it’s still the same ingredient. So it’s important for people to pay attention to the label to make sure the product doesn’t contain allergens. Skinno will actually alert you if an ingredient you’re allergic to is in a product!

Are ingredients with names we can’t pronounce or things that are “chemical-y” necessarily bad? What about ingredients we notice all the time or ingredients that are “natural”? How can Skinno help users tell the difference?

Everyone has heard the rule, “If you can’t pronounce it, don’t put it on your skin!” But that is so wrong! There are tons of amazing ingredients in skincare with long, complicated names or names that are unfamiliar. Just because something “sounds” like a chemical doesn’t mean it’s bad for you. The idea that chemicals are “bad” stems from the societal phenomena of “chemophobia,” or fear of chemicals. We are conditioned to be wary of unfamiliar chemicals or anything that sounds chemical-like. With Skinno, my hope is we can educate people to know that just because it sounds scary, doesn’t mean it is!
Natural ingredients are interesting … They don’t really exist. Natural has no meaning or definition under the FDA, so companies can label pretty much any product as “natural.” So even ingredients that are “naturally derived,” usually from source plants or other means, are usually put though many chemical processes before arriving in your skincare bottle. This by no means makes them worse; I just want people to see that there isn’t much of a difference just because something is labeled natural.

How can skincare junkies know what’s best for their skin, besides trial and error? How do you see Skinno helping them?

The best way to mitigate trial and error when it comes to product choice is to make educated decisions before purchase. Being a skincare junkie myself, and someone on a budget, I research every product as much as possible before I decide to buy it. Skinno can really help people with this task. Instead of taking hours to do research on every product, you can just scan to see what each ingredient does and, in the future, if it will actually work for your skin type. Certain ingredients can work better for certain skin types, and we can help you decipher that!

Skincare is really having a moment. Why are you building this app now?

Honestly, it was just good timing! I’ve always loved skincare, and the opportunity to build this app fell into my lap, so to speak. But I really felt people were craving more information about the products they use every day. Ingredient consciousness is on the rise, especially in skincare, which is uniquely chemistry-driven and difficult to dissect. I wanted to help people become smarter consumers.

Tell us more about the app’s tech! The scanning feature is one of the coolest things I’ve seen and reminds me a lot of technology I’ve only seen in shopping apps or on Google Translate.

Yes exactly! So we are using optical character recognition or OCR technology to literally read ingredient labels with your smartphone camera. It’s the same tech Google Translate uses; we’re applying it to ingredient labels. This means that if a product is not in our database or doesn’t have a barcode, you can still scan it and get a readout on the ingredients, which is totally unique to our app!
We do have a barcode scanner just in case the ingredients aren’t on the product. We’re also launching the app with machine learning in September, so the app will learn about you and your skin over time to give you personal recommendations.

Right now, the app is in beta. What can beta testers expect from the experience?

So right now the app can only give you simple ingredient explanations, and you can use the routine feature and be able to flag ingredients you like and ingredients you’re allergic to or don’t like. But we’re pushing new updates to the app every few days with improvements and fixes. Users will basically get a glimpse into how an app is really made. They will see us grow a lot in the next few months. All the features in there now are very basic, but they are stepping stones to help us get to the final version of the app. We always ask users to give us as much feedback as possible. We’re building this for you!

What features are you hoping to incorporate as you further develop the app?

Our biggest project is the complete personalization of the app. We want to be able to give easy-to-understand, simple, and personal skincare recommendations to users, instantly. That means when you’re shopping and scan a product with Skinno, we can tell you immediately if we think this product is worth the purchase based on multiple factors such as skin type, your environment, and budget, to name a few!
To do this, we will be using machine learning and a skin type quiz (that we’re developing right now) to learn about the user over time. The other big feature is product comparison. We can automatically compare the ingredients so you know whether to splurge or save!

What challenges have you faced creating this app?

We face a lot of challenges since we’re building a product using technology that’s never been applied to this space. Definitely the biggest challenges we face are building out an extensive database with ingredients verified by science literature. It takes a long time to truly research each ingredient. Next is our OCR scanner: Round bottles or shiny packaging can be challenging, so we are in the process of creating our own technology to read special packaging. Lastly is automating something so personal! We have to consider skincare and people’s preferences from all angles, so I talk to a lot of people about skincare daily.
Both Christina and I are women in science, a sometimes difficult position to be in professionally, but getting better every year thanks to amazing initiatives. But now we are also women in tech, a notoriously hard industry to get into, especially knowing that only 3 percent of companies backed by Venture Capital Investment are women-owned. We’ve definitely had people doubt us, ignore us, and assume we didn’t have the knowledge to execute this, but that only makes us work harder and smarter. We also have amazing mentors that have believed in us from the start, so that has been very encouraging.

Can you tell us about your personal skincare journey?

My skincare journey has been a long and very difficult road. Since I was 12 I’ve dealt with cystic acne, a severe type of acne that comes in the form of very painful, long-lasting cysts on the skin. I tried so many products, went to many dermatologists, and over the years developed my knowledge on skincare via trial and error, reading, googling, and getting my degree in chemistry and learning formulation. I even remember at multiple points in my life looking at my face in the mirror and actually crying because of all the painful cysts. I still have acne today, but thankfully it isn’t as bad now because I found it was hormonal acne and took the steps to get treated for it. Now I focus on acne scar reduction and keeping my dry skin moisturized.

What are your favorite ingredients?

That’s such a hard question these days! Definitely a favorite is ceramides. Such an amazing ingredient to have in a moisturizer. Another is lactic acid: It’s a gentle yet effective exfoliant that’s great for dry skin like mine.

What are your favorite products right now?

Products I’m loving are the CeraVe Hydrating Facial Cleanser; it’s been my holy grail cleanser for years. Next is the Dr. Jart Ceramidin Cream, a new favorite moisturizer. Lastly, the e.l.f. Cosmetics Primer sheet mask, it’s got some surprisingly great ingredients and only costs $2!
Download Skinno for iOS to try it out yourself and follow Skinno on Instagram to keep up with their progress.